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Cheira bem, cheira a Lisboa!

This is what the Queen of Fado herself, Amália Rodrigues, used to sing. A hymn to the Portuguese capital, capable of evoking all its scents — not only the tangible ones: spices and the sea, wine and grilled sardines, the warmth of the people filling the streets of Alfama and Mouraria, the aromas of traditional festivities. But Lisbon carries another fragrance too, a subtler one: the scent of saudade, of memory and tradition. The very soul of the city.

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