Alberto Morillas: I Never Sought Fame

Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule

Talking about the most influential perfumers of our time, it's impossible not to think of Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas and his iconic, industry-shaping creations. In an interview with PlezuroMag, he shares his creative philosophy, the story behind his own brand Mizensir, and the emotions that continue to drive his work after more than five decades in perfumery.

Photos from the personal album

The Master Perfumer was born in Seville, Spain in 1950, and moved to Switzerland at the age of ten. He began working in perfumery at the age of 20, and legend has it that a Vogue article about French perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain was the inspiration of his calling – revealing to him that being a perfumer was a real profession, and one worth dedicating his life to.

Although he lacked a formal degree in chemistry, a young Morillas convinced Firmenich to take a chance on him, securing a role in their natural essences research department. Surrounded by perfumers and raw materials, he quietly began experimenting on his own – composing in secret, despite company rules. One day, he presented an unauthorized creation to Firmenich’s leadership. It was a bold move – and a turning point.

Today, there are more than 500 perfumes in various databases bearing the name of Alberto Morillas, and even more perfumes that he has touched. A huge number of creations for Gucci and Bvlgari, iconic fragrances for Kilian, collaborations with Amouage and Le Labo – these are just a few highlights in an extraordinary career. And yes, the revolutionary unisex perfume CK One, which forever changed the industry, was also created by Mr. Morillas.

Alongside his collaborations with major brands, he also has his own fragrance house – Mizensir. What began in 1999 as a candle and home fragrance company, now also carries a line of Mizensir Parfums, a collection of more personal creations that reflect Mr. Morillas’s deepest inspirations. These fragrances are unmistakably his: elegant, tasteful, effortlessly chic, and crafted with uncompromising quality.

Despite his busy schedule, Mr. Morillas took time to share his reflections with PlezuroMag – on creativity without limits, the evolution of perfumery, and the emotional core that defines a true perfume.

When did you decide to create Mizensir? What was the original idea behind the brand, and how did it evolve from candles to perfumes?


I founded Mizensir with the help of my wife Claudine in 1999. It all started when a friend asked me to make him a candle that smelled like a Christmas tree: he had just bought a plastic one that sorely lacked magic in his living room. With that "Sapin de Noël" candle, the story began: all my friends wanted one.

The evolution towards perfumes happened naturally. As a Master Perfumer, launching a perfume collection for Mizensir felt like the logical next step.

What does the name "Mizensir" mean, and why did you choose it?


“Mizensir” literally means “to put into wax” in French, which perfectly describes the art of capturing a scent in a candle. It was my family and friends who suggested the name: it sounded good with my name, Morillas, and they also noticed that “NEZ” (French for “nose”) appears backward in MiZENsir… a nice nod to my profession.

Do you still create candles today?

Always! Creating is my passion. Recently, I even developed a collection around fruits, which hasn’t been released yet. I was inspired by a still-life painting I saw during an auction.

Do you see echoes of the young, rebellious man — secretly mixing formulas at Firmenich — in the way you lead Mizensir today?


Yes, I don’t think I’ve changed. When it comes to creation, I set no limits. I still have the same passion I had 55 years ago when I started in perfumery.

Does your Spanish heritage continue to shape your olfactory style or influence your creative instincts?


Yes, my Spanish roots are very dear to me. Seville is my very first olfactory memory: the patio, the presence of water, orange blossom, and jasmine filled my childhood. As a child, I wasn’t aware of it, but as an adult, it resonates completely differently. Unconsciously, my story has shaped the way I create.

You've spent much of your life in Switzerland — a place known for its precision, nature, and quiet elegance. How has living there influenced your approach to perfumery and the spirit of Mizensir?


Switzerland gave me so much when we arrived with my parents in the early 1960s. Just like my childhood in Spain, my youth in Switzerland deeply influenced my style: the way of life, the discipline, the calm, punctuality, and the importance given to one’s word. By chance, we settled in Geneva, where Firmenich, a great family-run perfume house, was located.


Mizensir is the result of this journey. It’s a Swiss brand where everything is handcrafted in Geneva. An elegant brand, without ostentation or rebellion, simply precise, where the essential remains the quality of the fragrance: the search for balance and the pursuit of sincere emotion, without artifice.

Mizensir blends classical elegance with a modern sensibility. How do you define modernity in fragrance today?

It’s about embracing what modernity can offer us. At the beginning of my career, I started by learning about natural molecules as a lab technician. I gained a certain expertise, but I also place great importance on using new molecules, such as those from biochemistry, in my creations. They are unique and can truly reveal a formula, and even enhance naturals.

Modernity is about accepting evolution. Working at DSM-Firmenich, I’m lucky to have access to the most high-tech and exclusive molecules.

Do you ever revisit your earlier creations and feel like you would like to change or reinterpret them?


Sometimes I forget about some of my past creations until someone brings them up or I smell them on someone. I never remake an old creation, but I sometimes return to the original idea and rework it in a different way.

Is there a particular perfume you’ve created that holds a deeply personal or sentimental meaning for you?


I’m attached to all my creations. Each represents a moment in my life, a time when I dedicated myself to creating. It’s like asking a parent which of their children they prefer!

After all these years, is there still a raw material or note that you're curious to explore or reinvent in a new way?


You know, all materials still interest and intrigue me. Even the ones I’ve known for decades can reveal something new, something unexpected. This passion drives me to explore them relentlessly. In the end, this perpetual cycle of creation will never stop. As long as you are a perfumer, you remain a passionate explorer, always ready to rediscover and reinvent.

Throughout your career, you've created many iconic fragrances, including the revolutionary CK One. How does it feel to know your work has touched — and even shaped — the lives of so many people?


It’s a very special feeling. Above all, I feel deeply grateful. I couldn’t have predicted its success when I was creating it, and its release was a real tidal wave. Knowing that a fragrance I created has accompanied so many people’s memories or life moments is an immense honor. I never sought fame, only to convey sincere emotion. When someone tells me a perfume marked an era or became personal to them, that’s the greatest reward for a perfumer. And it’s a fragrance, by the way, that allowed me to become a Master Perfumer.

You've said, “The perfumer is an artist who interprets emotions.” Which emotion do you find the most difficult to translate into scent, and why?


I would say sadness. It’s an emotion I find very difficult to translate into perfume, simply because I don’t wish to work with it. My role is to bring beauty and sincere emotion, but never to weigh down or darken the soul. I prefer to awaken light and joy, even in the deepest creations.

What does your creative process typically look like when composing a new fragrance? Is your approach different when you're creating for Mizensir compared to other brands?


My creative process always starts with a very clear emotion or image in my mind: a memory, a color, a light, a meeting. I like to start from that vision to imagine the formula. It reminds me of my first encounter with fashion designer Alessandro Michele, who told me about the scent of his grandmother’s chamomile… That conversation inspired Mémoire d’une Odeur for Gucci. I always compose by hand, on paper: it’s an essential gesture for me, the beginning of everything.

For Mizensir, it’s even more personal: I’m completely free, I can fully pursue my ideas and sensitivities, without constraints. For other brands, I have to interpret their identity, their desires, and find a balance between my vision and theirs. But in all cases, emotion and passion remain at the center.

That Vogue portrait of Jean-Paul Guerlain was a turning point in your life. Do you ever reflect on how different your path might have been had you not read it?

Yes, that’s true. That article in Vogue about Jean-Paul Guerlain was really a trigger for me: it made me realize that behind a perfume, there is a perfumer, and that being a perfumer was a real profession — something one could dedicate their life to. Nothing was truly mapped out for me. School wasn’t my thing. The only certainty I had was that I wanted to do something artistic.

Looking back on your journey — from your early days at Firmenich to founding Mizensir — what do you consider your greatest achievement, either within the brand or in your entire career as a perfumer?


I don’t like to look back too much. However, I can tell you that I’m happy to have fulfilled myself in a profession that is my passion. I feel honored by the trust Firmenich placed in me over all these years, and I’m proud of my perfume house, which is now led by my daughter.

From your perspective, how has the perfume industry changed over the decades? Do you think these changes have been mostly for better — or for worse?


The industry has changed a lot, that’s undeniable. There has been a great democratization of perfume: today it’s accessible to a wider audience, and there are many more brands and countless product launches each year. There are also more and more new synthetic materials, giving perfumers access to a broader creative palette.

How do you envision the future of perfumery, especially in a time of fast trends and growing technology?


Perfumery will continue to evolve with its time. Technology offers incredible tools: new raw materials, more efficient production methods, and more environmentally respectful extraction techniques. The era of fast trends is mostly driven by marketing departments. But despite all these evolutions, I remain convinced that the heart of the profession won’t change: it’s still about emotion and human creativity.

What’s next for Mizensir? Can you share any upcoming projects or ideas with our readers?

We’ve just launched Ylang Spirit this summer, a floral, solar, and intense fragrance—a nod to the languor of hot summer days. You know, at Mizensir, we always have plenty of ideas! The real challenge is learning to channel them… I can’t reveal everything just yet, but I can say that we’re working on new creations, always with the same ambition to elevate quality and offer something sincere and authentic. Refinement and elegance will remain at the heart of our vision.

What advice would you give to young people dreaming of becoming perfumers in today’s world?


In three words: determination, passion, hard work – and patience. It’s a profession that takes time: to understand the materials, to find your own voice, to develop your sensitivity. You have to work a lot, smell over and over again, and never stop learning. But above all, stay true to yourself: don’t try to copy or please at all costs – focus on conveying a real emotion. Technique matters, but it’s the soul of the perfumer that makes the difference.

Thank you for your time.