Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
My afternoon with Ormonde Jayne in Cannes left me with three perfume discoveries that stayed with me long after the first spray: a mango and oud composition that challenged my expectations, a vanilla I would soon be packing for Japan, and a perfume that exceeded my already high expectations.
Images by Darius Damulis
During TFWA Cannes, the British house celebrated its 25th anniversary with a relaxed afternoon apéro on a beautiful rooftop terrace. Founder Linda Pilkington shared stories and anecdotes from the brand’s history, while the conversation moved naturally between perfumes, their ingredients, and the experiences behind them.
I had previously interviewed Linda for PlezuroMag, exploring the creativity that have shaped Ormonde Jayne. This meeting offered another opportunity to hear her speak about the house, this time in the easy atmosphere of an afternoon spent discovering fragrances together.
Among the fragrances presented were Vanilla Aube, Bijou Zafran, Musc Rogue, Suede Silhouette, and Sybarite. The latter, introduced as a flagship boutique exclusive, had been on my must-try list ever since I first heard about it. There was plenty to explore, but three perfumes particularly caught my attention.
Musc Rogue: Mango and Oud in Balance
Musc Rogue belongs to a style that has become increasingly popular in recent years: fruit paired with oud. Honesly, it is not usually my favourite combination. I often find fruity oud perfumes overwhelming, with the sweetness and intensity competing for attention rather than finding a comfortable balance.
Here, however, I had a different experience.
The mango feels creamy at first, with a softness that immediately drew me in. As the fragrance develops, saffron and oud gradually become more apparent, bringing warmth and depth without overwhelming that opening impression. There is a lovely sense of progression, allowing me to enjoy the fruit before discovering what lies beneath it.
What stood out most was the balance. Musc Rogue has character, but I never felt that it was trying too hard to make its presence known. It made me reconsider a combination I would otherwise have been inclined to pass over.
Vanilla Aube: A Vanilla with a Mysterious Side
Vanilla Aube caught my attention immediately. Imagine cardamom and pistachio meeting the sweetness of vanilla: a combination that might lead you to expect something distinctly edible. Yet on my skin, the perfume took a more intriguing direction.
There is sweetness, certainly, but also a darker, mysterious side that I find difficult to pinpoint. Something about it feels seductive. The cardamom brings a spiced warmth, while the pistachio adds a nutty texture without turning the composition into a dessert.
Iris lends a beautiful powderiness, adding another layer to the vanilla. Anyone familiar with Vanille des Afriques Intensivo will know how beautifully Ormonde Jayne handles this pairing. Vanilla Aube reminded me of that affinity, while giving me an entirely different perfume to fall for.
For me, it is seductive, addictive, and very easy to return to. The travel-sized sample I received has already had plenty of wear. In fact, I liked it enough to take it with me to Japan shortly after Cannes .- a place in my travel selection being a fairly good indication of how much I want to keep wearing something.
Sybarite: Beyond Expectations
Despite my instant attraction to Vanilla Aube, Sybarite was my favourite discovery of the afternoon.
I had been eager to try it for months, having heard such enthusiastic reactions from people who had already experienced it. Expectations can be difficult things for a perfume to live up to, but in this case, I understood the enthusiasm as soon as I smelled it.
Once again, there is orris and vanilla, but the effect is remarkably different. I first notice hazelnut, bringing a soft nuttiness and a suggestion of sweetness. It never becomes too obviously gourmand, though. Rose introduces a floral facet, while plenty of musk surrounds the composition, giving it a beautiful softness.
I loved the way these elements came together. The nuttiness, powderiness, flowers, and vanilla all felt beautifully balanced, with nothing pulling the fragrance too far in one direction. It was one of those discoveries that made me want to move straight from testing to wearing.
So I did. Before leaving, I sprayed Sybarite generously, choosing it as the scent of my evening. Almost immediately afterwards, I received a compliment on the perfume I was wearing.
After an afternoon of smelling and discussing fragrances, Sybarite was the one I wanted to leave in – and the one that made itself noticed as soon as I did.