Frida’s Thorns: A Delicious and Surreal Take on Rose
Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
Obvious Parfums recently launched their new 'High Standards' collection. 'Frida's Thorns' in this line stands out as an authentic, and notably, not so obvious fragrance.
Photo: IG @kristinakiiscents
Inspired by Mexico and one of its most famous artists, Frida Kahlo, 'Frida's Thorns' was created by Master Perfumer Julien Rasquinet. His signature is evident in the scent, combining undeniable elegance with something unique and unexpected.
Kahlo’s artwork is rich in Mexican cultural details, yet she is often described as a surrealist or magical realist. Her reflections on chronic pain are a recurring theme in her creations. With this in mind, the execution of 'Frida's Thorns' makes perfect sense. Despite the official note list hinting at a sweet, easy gourmand composition, the fragrance is surprising and distinctive.
It opens with a heavy, sweet, and slightly dry burst—like a shot of espresso that jolts you awake, leaving you curious about what comes next. What follows is an incredibly complex and rich rose. As the brand notes, it is "rich in love, pain, and desire, a rose refusing to be confined to the conventional roles it’s often assigned."
Photo from the brand’s archive
Indeed, this rose feels more surreal than expected—dark, deep, and almost bitter at times. Is it the thorns? Perhaps it’s the black chocolate that evokes this sensation, even leaving a lingering taste in my mouth as I smell the fragrance.
After its unexpected opening, the scent softens slightly as cocoa emerges. But not the sugared kind—this is bittersweet cocoa powder, adding depth to the fragrance’s elegance. Chocolaty patchouli in the base further enhances the rich, flavorful effect.
This fragrance is anything but an easy walk. It’s an experience, an intense journey, leading you to undiscovered places. It eventually settles with warm, soft vanilla that mellows the composition, though the chocolaty rose lingers throughout the perfume’s entire wear on my skin – the rose that's unexpected, a bit prickly, yet so delicious and alluring.
[Bottle generously gifted, opinion my own]