Diving into Houbigant Collection Les Ambres: The Elixirs of Passion
Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
The French perfume house Houbigant recently launched a Collection Les Ambres, featuring three alluring red bottles and the passionate scented stories they hold.
Photo from the author's archive
Houbigant is a well-known name to anyone interested in perfumery—it's actually one of the oldest, if not the oldest, names in the perfume industry. Founded in 1775, Houbigant originally sold bridal bouquets, perfumes, and gloves. The brand was the first to introduce a fougère fragrance, Fougère Royale, which remains popular today. Historical figures such as Napoleon and Queen Victoria were also clients of Houbigant.
The brand was the first perfume house to pioneer the isolation of specific molecules from natural raw materials, notably coumarin, which is extracted from the tonka bean. Needless to say, it greatly shaped the perfume world as we know it today.
Photo from the author's archive
Nowadays, Houbigant continues to offer perfumes that were first created centuries ago, while also introducing new releases. In my opinion, these new creations are beautiful compositions that blend vintage heritage with modern styles.
Collection Les Ambres is the brand's latest release. The passion-red bottles and the intriguing notes instantly caught my attention, so I was thrilled to try the line during the TFWA event in Cannes last week. Hand on heart, they impressed me deeply. Let’s dive into the three new perfumes in more detail.
Vanille Impériale
“Vanille Impériale captures the essence of that enchanting night under a starry sky. It transports the spirit to distant horizons, where the sky becomes a living tableau of dreams and infinite possibilities," according to the brand.
This is definitely my favorite. It opens with a burst of citrus and quickly evolves into a delicious tuberose-vanilla composition. There are other floral notes that make appearances as well, but tuberose is the most prominent to my nose. As the collection’s name suggests, it's ambery and warm, and I even detect a hint of cherry, though it’s not listed in the notes. Maybe it’s the amber or ambrette tricking me? The scent is sweet, but not overwhelmingly so, and it stands out for its uniqueness. In a sea of vanilla-based perfumes, this one feels special and incredibly pleasant. I rarely say this, but for me, it's a 10/10 perfume.
Photo from the author's archive
Ambre Rubis
“Ambre Rubis is a tribute to the 'King of Gems,' discovered by a talented explorer and cherished in a remote palace for centuries. This precious stone symbolizes vitality, courage, and prosperity,” according to the brand.
This is my second favorite from the collection, though it’s a very close call. Surrounded by frankincense, pink pepper, boozy rum, and jasmine, there’s a beautiful cherry (finally!) accord that briefly reminds me of amaretto. However, it’s not overly sweet. Thanks to the smoky and woody accords, this fragrance is well-balanced and refined. The dark touches make the cherry deep, mature, and very alluring. However, I have to note that it makes me think of something I have smelled - it has some similarities with Initio’s Narcotic Delight and Fragrance Du Bois’ Voyage a Paris. This doesn’t mean though that they are the same – Ambre Rubis keeps its own smoky bitterness and the beautiful amber accord. I enjoy it a lot!
Photo from the author's archive
Rose du Désert
“Rose du Désert captures the essence of a delicate rose growing within the rugged desert landscape. Surrounded by nature’s harshness, this rose is picked at dawn for its floral sweetness and warm sand undertones,” as described by the brand.
As the name suggests, this fragrance is centered around the rose, which makes it my least favorite in the collection. I often struggle with rose fragrances, and very few containing this flower make it onto my “loved” list. However, I must acknowledge the unique and beautifully crafted approach taken in this perfume. Bulgarian and Turkish roses are complemented by vanilla, violet, musk, and, of course, amber. It’s an elegant, slightly dark rose, with a hint of patchouli in the base. Perhaps not for me, but still very well-executed.
[The samples were generously gifted, review and opinion is my own.]