Amouage Material: The Quintessential Vanilla
Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
Le Jardin Retrouvé is a family-run brand with a story spanning many years. Founded in 1975 by master perfumer Yuri Gutsatz, its fragrances were initially exclusive to hip locales, laying the roots for what we now recognize as niche perfumery.
Perfumer / Cecile Zarokian
Year / 2021
Price / €345/100ml (02/2024)
Top notes / Elemi Oil • Patchouli Oil
Heart notes / Vanilla Madagascar Absolute • Benzoin Resinoid
Base notes / Guaiac Wood Oil • Oud Oil • Osmanthus Absolute • Frankincense Resinoid • Labdanum Absolute • Tonka Bean Absolute.
Le Jardin Retrouvé is a family-run brand with a story spanning many years. Founded in 1975 by master perfumer Yuri Gutsatz, its fragrances were initially exclusive to hip locales, laying the roots for what we now recognize as niche perfumery.
Photo: kristinakiiscents
Following Yuri's passing in 2005, the brand gradually faded into obscurity until 2016 when Yuri's son, Michel, and his wife, Clara, embarked on a journey to revive Le Jardin Retrouvé. They revamped the design, embraced eco-responsible practices, while preserving the original formulas and notes established by the founder.
This narrative truly inspired me, igniting my curiosity about their creations. I had the pleasure of meeting the charming Clara at Esxence 2023 in Milan, where she introduced me to the house's fragrances. Among them, Oriental Sans Souci immediately captured my heart.
This perfume is anchored in spicy jasmine, enriched with warm and opulent resins. It unfolds with a burst of citrus and transitions seamlessly into a lavish floral bouquet, featuring notes of rose and rich ylang-ylang, all complementing the star ingredient – jasmine.
Sometimes, jasmine fragrances can lean overly indolic or even induce headaches, but not in this case. Here, the white floral accord is expertly balanced with the softest touches of ambery vanilla, and tonka bean, lending a subtle gourmand quality while retaining the luminosity of the florals.
It evokes images of a summer garden late at night, suffused with the enchanting aroma of jasmine blooms. It feels like I want to stay outside just a little longer, but from the window, I can smell the freshly baked cookies that my father just made. Reminiscence of home and nostalgia.
The fragrance's base is predominantly vanillic with hints of patchouli, imparting a dark, chocolatey undertone. I adore how it mellows into a powdery embrace on my skin – neither overwhelming nor fleeting, but rather prominently cozy, especially in colder climates, evoking warm and comforting associations.
Despite its origins dating back to 1963, Oriental Sans Souci remains timeless, with its scent transcending trends and eras.