Inside Polaris Olfactive Week 2025: Independent Perfumery Takes Center Stage in Stockholm

Written by Eveline Nagajeva

Polaris Olfactive Week has quickly become the most important event for independent perfumery in Northern Europe. For the second year in a row, it brought together indie and artisan perfume houses for two days of discovery, education, and conversation. Visitors not only explored fragrances but also attended olfactive workshops and presentations throughout the event.

Polaris Olfactive Week / Images by Eveline Nagajeva

This year’s winter edition took place in central Stockholm and gathered 52 brands from 25 countries. It was impossible for me to meet every exhibitor, there was simply so much to see and smell, but the encounters I did have were truly memorable, including revisiting a few houses I already knew, which felt just as exciting as discovering new ones.

Highlights from the United Kingdom

One of the most heart-warming stops was 4160 Tuesdays, an indie house from England. Their creations feel personal since perfumes are released only when perfumer Sarah McCartney is fully satisfied with them. I fell for the darkest, earthiest cocoa-and-coffee composition, Over the Chocolate Shop, and for many others.

Sarah shared insights about her work, much of which is inspired by her own garden. She also collaborates widely, from author Joanne Harris, to brands, to creating the scent of Elvis’ changing room for the Elvis Evolution Immersive Experience.

The UK-based house Maya Njie weaves its founder’s dual heritage, Swedish and Gambian, through memories, family photographs from the 1960s, and airy, atmospheric compositions. Maya presented her latest creation, Aethi Opum, built around coffee, spices, incense, leather, vanilla, and the rarely used Aidan fruit, which visitors could also smell in a special display.

Known primarily for his exquisite attars, Sultan Pasha, a London-based perfumer with Bangladeshi roots, presented a collection of four fragrances. This edition of Polaris offered an opportunity to experience his beautiful scents translated into perfumes, reinterpretations of classic themes composed with his signature richness and depth.

The presentation from Nosu was mesmerizing. Based in North London, the house is a collaboration between artist Lucy Webster and self-taught perfumer Jacob Grainger. They showed three fragrances, and my favorite was Been Trying to Meet You, which smelled like a sunlit meadow.

Dor Olfactory could not be missed, their bottles stood out immediately. They presented three fragrances and just launched You See Me Too from the new Haiku collection, inspired by the grove, by Ahwahnee, and by the stillness of being seen by nature.

Discoveries from the United States

EAUSO VERT is a female and Latin owned house founded by Tanya Gonzalez and Faye Harris. Their perfumes, created by Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Pascal Gaurin, feel modern, bright, and effortlessly lovable, the kind you reach for every day. Their Boozy Patchouli took my heart.

Nose of Gatsby, based in Seattle, is the work of self-taught perfumer Gatsby Yeh, who creates scents inspired by imaginary worlds, memories, and rich stories. The bottles and presentations are as artistic as the fragrances themselves. My eyes went straight to Eau de Lynch (as a lifelong Twin Peaks admirer, I couldn’t resist) and Double Espresso, which smells like smoky coffee.

A standout presentation came from Zernell Gillie Fragrances. Zernell Gillie, a DJ and producer with roots in Chicago’s 1980s House scene, combined his passion for scent and sound when the pandemic paused his career. His perfumes are inspired by different music genres.

A vibey and vibrant discovery was OSM, Our Scent Memories, from Nashville, created by perfumer Kyle Mott-Kannenberg. I fell for Hera, made in collaboration with Jinkx Monsoon, a multi-faceted fragrance that reminded me of hibiscus tea with spices.

Discoveries from Europe

Representing my home country, Latvia, Nōrtean, founded by Arturs Petersons, made its expo debut and felt perfectly aligned with the northern aesthetic. The house describes itself as the Noir of the North, blending contemporary romanticism with Northern biodiversity. It makes me proud to see such an interesting artisan house from my region.

I was delighted to meet our neighbors from Lithuania, the artisan house LIUR, whose name means “mouthwatering,” and indeed, some of their creations live up to it. The house is founded by a couple, Viktorija, the perfumer, and Povilas, who ensures her creativity flows uninterrupted by handling all essential tasks for LIUR. A perfect duo, isn’t it?

Hungary’s Brodēon, meaning “to embroider,” presented their collection of four fragrances. The house centers its identity on craftsmanship, fragrance as delicate, layered embroidery reflected in both scents and bottles.

Ephemeral Dyadic is a conceptual perfume project from industrial Istanbul. The idea is that things outside us, like scents, are short-lived, while our inner experiences, emotions, and memories last. The project explores the connection between a fragrance and the person wearing it.

From Poland, Profundum presented their debut, Martyr, a smoky, leathery, resinous, earthy composition, dark in every sense. Their upcoming releases, Fatale and Amen, continue in the same shadowy mood. My personal favorite among their works-in-progress is Omen, a leathery, saffron composition. Overall, the house gives a beautifully gothic, rock-inspired vibe.

Hiram Green is a Canadian perfumer based outside Amsterdam in the Dutch countryside. His scents are something else. Handcrafted from natural ingredients, each fragrance delivers a true “wow” factor. Hiram presented his newest release, Ultra, inspired by the bold energy of the 1980s, revealing every facet of the narcissus flower.

From Italy, Jijide Milano was born from a conversation between three friends. They presented two collections, The Dialogue Collection, about stories of gestures, places, and culture, and The Personality Collection, expressing emotions, moods, and identity.

Names from Sweden

One of my biggest anticipations was Carl Kling Parfums. Carl presented two interpretations of fig, Clary Fig and Fig Nuit. As the names suggest, one is lighter and one is deeper. Both are beautiful and unforgettable. He also hinted at his next release, built around elderflower, a beloved bloom in Sweden.

The Swedish house NEH, founded by Taraneh Derakshan, created a meditative oasis with their Altered States collection of six fragrances. The installation invited visitors to pause, breathe, and reconnect amid the bustling expo.

Based in Stockholm, NOS offers scent workshops and custom creations for companies. They presented three fragrances. My favorite was White Chypre Tarot Rose, an elegant, introspective composition.

Founded by Joseph Constantin, who launched his first fragrance at just 16 in his family’s garage, Dirista presented four fragrances alongside a preview of Clouds, the upcoming release. His youthful, creative energy was impossible to miss.

Many houses presented their attars, ouds, and more concentrated materials, a reminder that perfumery is also texture, intensity, and cultural tradition.

Polaris Olfactive Week is a must-visit for anyone curious about niche perfumery or seeking inspiration beyond the mainstream. You won’t find big commercial names here, only unique, rare, deeply artisanal work.

Among all expos I’ve attended, Polaris stands out as one of the best organized, warmest, and most memorable. The venue was ideal, right in the center of Stockholm, just a ten-minute walk from the central station, perfect for international visitors. The organization was excellent, offering a friendly atmosphere, well-designed space, and even a limitless water station, a lifesaver when you’re sniffing all day.

I left with a full heart, scented blotters in hand, and the sense that the world of perfumery is truly endless, full of bright discoveries waiting to be explored.