Highlights and Lowlights of Paris Perfume Week
Written by Sima Keijzers-Puodziute
I have been visiting Paris Perfume Week since its very beginning: 2024. This year it was the third edition of this event and here are some of my thoughts about it.
Images by Sima Keijzers-Puodziute
This year the event took place in more spacious, more elevated and ‘luxurious’ location – Palais Brongniart. The move to a larger venue brought with it a noticeable change in atmosphere. Paris Perfume Week felt bigger in every sense: more brands, more visitors, more workshops, more movement (and queues). This year, I could only participate in this event two days instead of three and that was a challenge: so many more brands that I even have not heard of. It was interesting to see the growing number of Asian perfume houses, but their corner was very difficult to reach due to the crowds.
I am very happy for the organizers who managed to get so much interest, however for me, as a participant it was less of enjoyable experience. I missed the intimacy of previous years where you can really explore perfumes undisturbed and talk to brand owners longer than a few minutes. Still, there were scents that managed to cut through the noise.
Sima Keijzers-Puodziute
A Glimpse at What’s New
One of the clearest trends this year was the rise of fruity/berry gourmands, with strawberry in all its forms leading the way. From juicy, almost playful interpretations to softer, more nostalgic wild strawberry nuances. A few that I tried were Holy Berry by D’Orsay, Luisant Haze by Thomas De Monaco, Fraise Couture by Superfumista. Each approached the theme differently, yet together they painted a clear picture that there is definitely a new trend.
I also enjoyed discovering a few new releases of some of my favorite perfume houses. Essential Parfums has released Ambre Latte – a creamy almond milk accord paired with tonka bean, caramel, and vanilla, lingering on a warm based of benzoin, words and white musk. I thought that such a combination was not for me (I am not a fan of milky, caramel based accords), but this one genuinely surprised me.
On the other hand, Atelier Materi, a house I usually love, released Black Oregano, which simply wasn’t for me. It’s always interesting how even brands you deeply connect with can take directions that don’t resonate personally.
A highlight was discovering Rose Graffiti from Les Bains Guerbois, created by Jean-Claude Ellena, one of my favorite perfumers. You can immediately recognize his signature: airy, transparent, and quietly elegant perfume. The composition blends centifolia and damask rose with subtle touches of passion fruit and a soft musky base. I also admire how this brand continues to follow its own creative path rather than chasing trends.
For those who appreciate the olfactory language of Jean-Claude Ellena, I discovered a new brand that might resonate: AVII. Founded in 2025, this Spanish house embraces a “less is more” philosophy. I had the chance to smell four of their fragrances and was especially drawn to Mushin. It is a minimalistic musky-floral scent that felt calm, intentional, and quietly expressive. I would love to explore this brand further in the future.
I always visit Racyne, which has been part of Paris Perfume Week since the very beginning. Caroline, the brand owner, is such a sweet and kind soul. This year, I had the chance to test an upcoming release that doesn’t even have a name yet. I immediately felt that this is something I would wear and cannot wait once it’s officially launched.
Sima Keijzers-Puodziute and Caroline Pelissier
There were also brands I wish I had more time for, like Sammarco, Amniens, and The Scent of Africa. I ‘tasted’ a few of their scents which intrigued me, but needed a bit more time to explore their full collections.
Thoughts on What Could Be Improved
Talking to different brands revealed another layer of the Paris Perfume Week evolution. Some were thrilled with how many people attended and overall traffic. Others, however, mentioned that while there were many visitors, there were fewer retailers than expected. It seems that the balance shifted more toward public audience rather than an industry-focused one.
The amount of people that visited Paris Perfume Week tells us that niche perfumery is thriving and reaching bigger audiences. At the same time, I feel there is a room for improvement.
A few thoughtful adjustments could make a significant difference: improved crowd management, more space between stands, and the addition of a simultaneous interpreter for the “Smell Talks” (many of which were only in French). I also found myself wishing for more quiet corners to sit and reset or have a meeting with a brand, a better distribution of goodie bags (by Friday afternoon they had already disappeared), and dedicated, longer time slots for retailers and press.
Paris Perfume Week is clearly evolving. It is becoming bigger, more visible, and more influential with each edition. And while that growth brings new energy, I find myself hoping it won’t lose what made it feel so special in the first place: the intimacy, the conversations, the quiet moments of discovery.
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