Paris Perfume Week 2026: Between Intimacy and Expansion

Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule

Visiting this year’s Paris Perfume Week brought that moment of realization that things have changed. Not gradually, not subtly, but decisively. This feeling came before I even stepped inside the Palais Brongniart, the new location of the fair. The queue was already forming, stretching along the street, before the doors even opened.

Paris Perfume Week 2026 / Photo credit: Darius Damulis

What unfolded over the following three days made that shift even clearer. The event, now hosting over 160 brands from across the world, has outgrown the idea of being a “small, curated gathering.” Compared to last year’s intimate edition, this one felt expansive, fast-moving, and at times almost overwhelming. The aisles filled quickly, conversations overlapped, the voices from increased volume were gone before the days ever ended, and the pace of discovery accelerated to the point where slowing down – something I find essential when experiencing fragrance – became a challenge. I felt that instead of an event for discovering perfumes it was more of an event of meeting perfume people and extending the community.

And yet, that intensity says something important. People are not only interested in niche perfumery – they are actively seeking it out. The audience included industry professionals, journalists, content creators, and highly engaged consumers, all sharing the same curiosity.

Photo credit: Darius Damulis

However, growth comes with trade-offs. The scale of the event, while impressive, inevitably affected the experience itself. During peak hours, moving through the space became difficult, and spending meaningful time at each stand was often limited. Perfume is not something you can fully grasp in passing – it requires attention, patience, and space. Without that, even the most beautiful compositions risk being reduced to quick impressions.

The Trends

Running around the stands, discovering the new launches, this PPW edition made one trend very clear: gourmand perfumes are not going anywhere anytime soon. Bold, unapologetically sweet compositions that don’t try to be subtle were one of the main topics. These perfumes lean into richness, density, and sometimes very direct smell of cookies, cakes, and other alluring deserts. Think of creations like Tonka Kumaru from Atelier Materi or the new extraits from The Different Company, where high concentrations amplify that edible, mouthwatering quality. These scents feel confident, expressive, and clearly designed to leave a strong impression.

Photo credit: Kristina Kybartaite-Damule

On the other side – there is the rise of what I kept hearing referred to as neo-gourmands. This idea came up repeatedly a few times in conversations across the fair. These fragrances still revolve around sweetness, but they move away from literal edible references. Instead, they reinterpret gourmand notes in a lighter, more abstract way: airy sugars, diffused fruits, softened textures that feel more atmospheric than edible. Luisant Haze from Thomas De Monaco Parfums is a perfect example of this direction – sweet, yes, but luminous, fluid, and far less anchored in the idea of “food.” Or Asura from Tobba – there is some hazelnut in here with a hint of sweetness, but it goes to powdery, contrasty direction, which makes the perfume so intriguing.

Photo credit: Darius Damulis

Another noticeable thread running through multiple collections was the quiet return of iris. Not in the classic, powdery sense alone, but in more versatile interpretations – sometimes paired with woods, sometimes blended into musky or even gourmand structures. It appeared as a way to introduce texture and sophistication, often softening compositions while adding a subtle, almost tactile elegance. It’s not a loud trend, but it’s definitely there. My favorite of this category was Lunar Dust from Mabelle O’Rama – a subtle, powdery skin scent.

At the same time, a large number of emerging brands was striking. Even with years of experience in the field, I found myself encountering names I had never heard before. This influx brings a certain excitement – new ideas, new aesthetics, new narratives – but it also creates a more complex landscape, where standing out requires more than just a good composition.

Favorite Discoveries

Despite the intensity, during this PPW I managed to discover some very beautiful brands and creations that became the highlights of the fair for me.

Discovering Voyages Imaginaires was one of them. Their approach felt almost deliberately quiet in contrast to the surrounding noise – subtle, composed, and confident without needing to assert itself loudly. Behind the brand stand two exceptional women: Isabelle Doyen, a professor at ISIPCA and a perfume designer, and Camille Goutal, the daughter of legendary Annick Goutal. Together, they create natural perfumes, and I’ll be honest, their creations changed completely how I perceive the natural perfumes can be.

A similar feeling came from Millesève, a young French brand that has already started to generate organic interest. There is something compelling about encountering a house at the beginning of its journey, when the focus is still purely on the emotional response the scents create.

Meeting Franck Salzwedel of Élisire added another layer to the experience. Conversations with founders reveal what cannot be captured through scent alone: intention, direction, and the thinking behind the brand. In a crowded environment, these moments of direct exchange become even more valuable.

Kristina Kybartaite-Damule and Franck Salzwedel / Photo from personal album

And then there are the spaces outside the fair itself. Visiting the Spoturno boutique in Galeries Vivienne offered a completely different rhythm. Removed from the noise, it allowed for a more focused and immersive experience – something closer to how perfume is meant to be discovered. It highlighted how much context matters: the setting, the pace, the ability to engage without distraction.

Véronique Spoturno, the founder of the brand, Kristina Kybartaite-Damule, Christopher Sheldrake, the perfumer behind the Spoturno’s collection / Image from personal album

In many ways, Paris Perfume Week is at a turning point. It is growing into a major international platform, attracting attention far beyond the traditional niche audience. That growth is both its strength and its challenge. The question moving forward is not only how to expand, but how to do so without losing the essence of what makes perfumery special in the first place.

Because if this edition proved anything, it’s that the demand is there. The audience is ready, the creativity is present, and the industry is evolving quickly.

Now it’s about finding the right balance.