Tonka Hysteria by D'Orsay: A Love Letter
Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
Tonka Hysteria is one of the most recent releases from the French perfume house D'Orsay. This fragrance showcases the popular note of tonka bean in a different light from how it’s typically used.
Photo credit: Instagram / @kristinakii.scents
D'Orsay is a house with more than a century of history – founded in 1865, in homage to Alfred d'Orsay, who created several fragrances for his muse, Lady Marguerite de Blessington, an Irish novelist. Over the decades, the brand changed ownership multiple times until, in 2007, it was acquired by Marie Huet. She revisited D'Orsay’s historic creations and developed new fragrances to continue its legacy. In late 2015, the Æra Nova group took over the brand, leading to its relaunch in 2018.
Today, D'Orsay’s collection includes both contemporary creations and reinterpretations of its historic fragrances, some dating back more than a hundred years. One of the most recent launches is the Extrait collection in 2024, which introduced three new fragrances: Flower Lust, Incense Crush, and Tonka Hysteria.
I had the pleasure of discovering this trio in Milan during Esxence 2025, where D'Orsay presented the collection at Campomarzio70. Although I enjoyed all three, Tonka Hysteria was an instant love. This may not come as a surprise, considering my passion for tonka-based fragrances, but this particular creation takes the note to another level entirely. When it came to writing this review, I hesitated for quite some time – I felt no words could do justice to the scent. But let me try anyway.
Photo credit: Instagram / @kristinakii.scents
The fragrance opens with a warm burst of spices – cinnamon and a generous dose of pink pepper. There’s a subtle hint of incense, although it remains muted in the background. As pretty as the opening is, it doesn’t take long for the tonka bean to step into the spotlight.
And I feel it is THE tonka – slightly almondy, gently smoky, and with a touch of mystery. Vanilla, benzoin, and even a hint of caramel amplify its sweet, almost gourmand dimension. Yet, it never becomes overly dessert-like; it’s beautifully balanced, avoiding the cloying territory.
What truly sets Tonka Hysteria apart, though, is the sublime pairing of tonka with iris butter. I feel that tonka can sometimes come across as a bit dusty, but here, that texture is elevated by the presence of a powdery iris butter that adds a sensual, lipsticky softness. This floral element wraps around the tonka, transforming it into something more luxurious and nuanced. I can’t quite explain why this combination works so perfectly – it just does.
The dry-down is warm, soft, and incredibly intimate – like a memory of a love letter on skin. There's a certain elegance to it, making it quite versatile and suited to all genders. It lingers beautifully for hours, never losing its charm or balance.
To me, this composition by perfumer Jordi Fernández was love at first sniff and love that only deepened with time.