Pitti Fragranze 2025: Favorite Discoveries
Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
Last weekend, September 12–14, the streets of Florence were filled with perfume lovers – the annual Pitti Fragranze took place. Compared to previous years, the fair seems to be growing, both in the number of new brands attending and in visitors.
Pitti Fragranze 2025 / Photos by Darius Damulis
This year, more than 250 perfume brands showcased their creations – some even launched their houses at the fair! The presence of Korean perfume houses is also increasing, as they search for ways to win over European clients’ hearts and noses. Their booths buzzed with curiosity, drawing both professionals and fragrance lovers eager to discover new perspectives from Asia.
Alongside fragrant discoveries and heartfelt meetings, the Press Area hosted special brand presentations: Coreterno’s Michelangelo Brancato discussed how the artist’s vision transforms raw materials into autonomous works; Andy Tauer reflected on two decades of experience as an independent perfumer; Thomas De Monaco Parfums unveiled a new Artist Collection, where perfumers take the lead; and Tomáš Ric of Pigmentarium shared how he tells the stories of Prague through perfume – to name just a few. These events were not only educational but also allowed visitors to dive deeper into each brand’s universe.
As Pitti Fragranze grows, it becomes impossible to visit all 250+ brands during the fair. On the contrary, I always leave with the impression I’ve only seen a fraction. Still, here are my favorite discoveries from this year’s event:
Naso di Raza – Graffio
This Italian house was one of my favorite discoveries at last year’s Pitti Fragranze – I sincerely enjoyed almost every perfume in their collection. Naturally, I was very curious to see what they would present next. I was happy to learn they continue to create unique, high-quality perfumes without chasing trends. Their upcoming release Agapimú is a warm ambery oud fragrance with touches of incense and myrrh. Meanwhile, Graffio is a warm, spicy perfume with cardamom, star anise, cypriol, and patchouli. On the skin, it feels comforting and cozy – ideal for the colder season.
Réserve en Afrique – Rouge Karkade
This brand pays homage to the rich and diverse landscapes of the African continent, celebrating exceptional botanicals – from Madagascan vanilla and Somali opoponax to Nigerian ginger and Moroccan rose. The storytelling and artistic bottles immediately caught my attention. I was especially fascinated by Rouge Karkade – a fruity, jammy vanilla paired with hibiscus. Sweet yet balanced with a touch of oud, it’s a beautiful, charming fragrance.
Salon de Nevaeh
This Korean niche perfume house first drew me in with its bottles – stunning blue-and-white porcelain or mother-of-pearl decorated flacons that embody both luxury and tradition. The scents themselves are equally beautiful, crafted by perfumer Nevaeh, who reinterprets native Korean ingredients with artistry and precision. Rare botanicals and fruits found only in Korea add an exotic touch. I personally enjoyed many perfumes in the collection – they are unique, artistic, and full of storytelling. My favorites include Aster of the East, Eterna Hibiscus, and Savory Wood. I hope to see them available in Europe soon.
Gianluca Gariboldi
With his perfumes, Gianluca Gariboldi aims for excellence. While such a claim is nothing new in the luxury perfume industry, I found something genuinely refreshing and… excellent in his creations. They are not loud, pretentious, or reinventing the wheel – but they are deeply beautiful and touched my heart. Each perfume feels elegant, refined, and infused with the creator’s passion. Hard to describe in words – but absolutely worth trying.
Santa Eulalia
Founded in 1843, this Barcelona fashion and luxury house introduced a fragrance collection in 2014 that narrates the landscapes, emotions, and memories of the city. This concept alone sparked my interest, and I was delighted by many of the perfumes, with Albis, Odyssea, and Obscuro as standouts. During Pitti, they also introduced two new interpretations of popular scents: Crocus Forte and 175 Forte.
Ouder
A completely new brand to me – and one I almost missed. The name “Ouder” made me expect oud-heavy perfumes (not usually my favorite), but something drew me to their booth, and I’m glad it did. Ouder is an Italian artisanal house with six perfumes so far. The lighter creations in white bottles are easy to wear, beautifully blended, and elegant, while the two newest additions are more daring and powerful, yet still well-executed. I tried Nivalis on my wrist – and honestly, it became the best-smelling part of my arm that day (and you can imagine how much perfume was already there).
Miller Harris – Legato
I’m already familiar with Miller Harris, but their newly launched Legato was one of my top discoveries this year. Yes, it’s cherry-based – and every time I swear I don’t need any more cherry perfumes in my collection. But wow, this one is different! Just when cherry feels overdone, Miller Harris managed to reinvent it. I was defenseless – I just wanted to keep breathing it in. A beautiful launch!
Obvious – Kakigori Line
This line launched earlier this year, but I only just got the chance to try it. While Dulce de Leche was a bit too sweet for my taste, Plum Cream and White Crush were instant loves. Plum Cream is sweet but balanced, evoking faint memories of Tom Ford’s discontinued Plum Japonais, while White Crush is clean, refreshing, and the perfect scent for a crisp white shirt. Well done!
Epico
I had heard good things about this house but never tried their perfumes until now – and I’m so glad I finally did. Rarely does it happen that I enjoy almost everything I smell, but with Epico, I did. Choosing just one to photograph was nearly impossible. Many of their perfumes feature gourmand touches – coffee, caramel, vanilla – and while the gourmand trend is often overwhelming, Epico balances these notes beautifully, avoiding cloying sweetness. A fresh and refined take on gourmand accords – definitely worth discovering.
Stéphane Humbert Lucas – The Queen and the Viper
I’m always curious about new releases from this house, and this one did not disappoint. A new addition to La Collection Serpent, it blends fresh citrus and clean mint with deep frankincense, tobacco, and saffron. Luxurious and captivating – as one would expect from a fragrance inspired by Cleopatra.