Excense 2025: Trends to Anticipate this Year
Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
From February 19 to 22, one of the most important annual niche perfume events in the world—Esxence—took place in Milan for the fifteenth time, attracting approximately 13,500 attendees. As every year, perfume creators showcased their latest releases and upcoming launches for the year. I tried to sample as many as possible and predict which trends will dominate perfumery.
Esxence continues to grow each year. This year, 384 brands from 38 countries officially presented their fragrances. Additionally, more and more brands are opting to showcase their perfumes in private spaces, such as nearby hotels. If we include them, the total number of exhibitors would rise to around 500!
In recent years, the exhibition has seen a surge of interest from Asian countries. Brands from South Korea, Vietnam, China, Singapore, and Japan participated. There is also a noticeable shift among visitors—the number of young attendees is increasing. Perhaps social media plays a role, as discussing perfumes and sampling, or even purchasing, high-end fragrances worth hundreds of euros is becoming the norm among teenagers. This only shows that age is no barrier to perfumery; this passion connects generations.
‘This 15th edition has been the most successful ever’, says Maurizio Cavezzali, co-founder of Esxence and CEO of Equipe Exibit, ‘thanks to the contents proposed but also to the quality of the people attending, all extremely well prepared and attentive to emerging trends. This year, there was a significant enhancement in the booths, with a 30% increasing request for nude areas, a clear sign of maturity of the brands, which have invested even more in originality and creativity in the presentation of their products. It is not only the fragrances, the bottles and the packaging that shine for their uniqueness, but also the entire concept and communication, which take on a central role in the creative process, telling fascinating and distant stories, arousing deep and engaging emotions. We had the possibility to see a greengrocer's counter, vending machines, an old-fashioned train carriage, a beautiful old library and ledwalls that realistically tell the story of some brands’.
What to Expect from Perfumes in 2025?
Sweet and Even Sweeter
The gourmand perfume trend that began recent years shows no signs of slowing down. Scents reminiscent of desserts, chocolate, and pastries will be extremely popular this year. Some are so sweet that just smelling them feels like tasting them. Who needs real sweets when you're on a diet, right?
One of the gourmand scents I’ve been anticipating the most is Tonka Latte from Parfums Dusita. This Paris-based brand, founded by Thai-born Pissara Umavijani, is known for its elegant and refined style and has never released a gourmand fragrance before (only time coffee accord was used in La Rhapsodie Noire but it was joined with Fougère accord, therefore it was not an obvious gourmand). Naturally, I was eager to see how the perfumer would approach this genre—and the result did not disappoint. The fragrance beautifully blends tonka bean, vanilla, milky notes, and honey, creating a warm and cozy scent.
Photo: Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
Another delicious scent is Love No Shame from Plume Impression. It evokes the indulgence of whipped cream with almonds, cherries, and strawberries—what could be better? The composition also includes cinnamon, rose, cocoa, musk, sandalwood, and even a touch of oud to enhance the depth of the fragrance. Altogether, it forms a mouthwatering, well-balanced scent.
Photo: Darius Damulis
Meanwhile, the French house M. Micallef has unveiled an entire collection of seven gourmand fragrances. The lineup includes pistachio dessert, blueberry cupcake, chocolate fondue, and whipped cream infused with macadamia nuts. There's a sweet treat for everyone!
Tuberose
This sensual, even slightly provocative flower gained popularity last year, and its reign will continue in 2025.
Tuberose takes center stage in Eshal by Neela Vermeire Creations, the brand’s first release after three-year. Blended with cinnamon, bitter orange, patchouli, and vanilla, this tuberose composition is designed to evoke joyful memories and transport you to happy days. Like all the brand’s fragrances, it is created by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, and is refined, understated, and serene.
Photo: Darius Damulis
Another elegant tuberose scent comes from the newly launched brand Aphorismes, fronted by one of the most renowned perfumers of our time, Dominique Ropion. Innocent Tuberose truly lives up to its name—light, airy, and luxurious. In this composition, tuberose is delicately wrapped in black currant, orange blossom, cardamom, jasmine, lily of the valley, musk, and a host of other notes. It’s a masterful interpretation of this beloved white flower.
Fruit Bomb
For those who love sweetness but find chocolate and caramel too heavy—or simply don’t want to smell like a bakery—fruity fragrances offer a perfect alternative. Pineapple, peach, exotic fruits, pear, and baskets of berries will feature prominently in 2025.
One of the most beautiful fruity scents I encountered is the upcoming new perfume called Hypnorange from the Italian brand Coreterno. This vibrant fragrance offers a fresh and sweet interpretation of citrus fruits—an instant energy boost!
Photo: Darius Damulis
Meanwhile, the Korean brand Borntostandout is introducing two fruity fragrances: Black Mango and Black Guava, both part of its new Extrait Extrême collection.
Luxury Italian perfume house Xerjoff is also reviving its exotic fruit cocktail. Purple Accento, previously available only in a special crystal-adorned bottle, will now be released in a standard flacon at more accessible price. This fragrance is a true fruit explosion, blending pineapple, bergamot, mandarin, and blackberry, all enriched with floral accords and a generous dose of powdery musk that lingers beautifully on the skin.
Photo: Darius Damulis
Immortelle
This year, the distinctive sweet and dry aroma of this herb will appear in several new releases. While I can’t yet disclose specific names—since some were presented to me only as prototypes—this note has emerged repeatedly in new compositions. So, consider yourself warned!
Among the popular notes this year, we also find some timeless classics:
Vanilla – featured in Crème Ebène, an upcoming release from Nicolaï.
Myrrh – the star of Myrrh Shadow 403, the latest fragrance from Bon Parfumeur.
Musk – central to Musc d’Hiver by Oh Top.
Photo: Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
However, I wouldn’t categorize these notes as trends; rather, they are foundational elements that consistently inspire exclusive and well-made fragrances year after year. That said, I have high expectations for Myrrh Shadow 403, as it was created by renowned perfumer Quentin Bisch—whose creations frequently top the popularity charts. I wouldn’t be surprised if this one becomes a bestseller as well!