Esxence 2026: Favorite Discoveries and Highlights
Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
Esxence – The Art Perfumery Event returned to Milan for its sixteenth edition, confirming once again why it remains the most important gathering in the world of artistic perfumery.
Esxence 2026 / Photo: Darius Damulis
This year’s edition took place from June 3 to 6 at Allianz MiCo, bringing together more than 400 brands from over 40 countries, with 108 debuting for the first time. Over four days, more than 20,000 attendees moved through 20,000 square meters of exhibition space – proof that niche perfumery continues to expand its global reach at an impressive pace.
What stood this year was not only the scale of the event, but the diversity of voices. Korean, Japanese, Swiss, and Middle Eastern brands were were shaping conversations. The geography of niche perfumery is expanding, and Esxence reflects that shift more clearly than ever.
Below are my most memorable discoveries from this year’s edition – fragrances and brands that stayed with me long after leaving Milan (the ones I can talk write about. This fall will be generous with beautiful new perfumes I am very excited to talk about once they are available).
Tobba – Musc Albedo
Photo: Darius Damulis
Tobba presented Musc Albedo, a yet-to-be-launched fragrance that I wish I could already have on my skin. As the name suggests, it is centered around musk, but interpreted through a soft, lunar inspiration, evoking the idea of silver light. It is beautifully blended, almost tactile in its softness, and was easily one of my personal highlights of the entire fair.
Analisa - The Perfumers' Album
Photo: Darius Damulis
One of the highlights for me this year was Analisa. I had never tried the collection before, and I am very glad I decided to stop by the stand, as it quickly became one of my favorite discoveries of the fair. Analisa – The Perfumers' Album, highlights the perfumers behind each scent, with each fragrance presented in a box featuring the creators’s own signature – a simple detail that gives the collection a strong sense of authorship and personality. What impressed me even more was the balance between quality and accessibility. Despite being relatively affordable, the fragrances feel beautifully crafted and not compromising on the compositions. Adding to that, the brand donates a portion of every bottle sold to charity, which made the whole project feel refreshingly genuine. In an industry often focused on exclusivity and image, Analisa felt remarkably human.
Naso di Raza – Heres
Photo: Darius Damulis
Naso di Raza introduced Heres, a new fragrance that continues to show why it remains one of my beloved Italian brands. Built around the brightness of citruses, it gradually unfolds into warmer layers of smoke and resins, creating a contrast that feels both luminous and grounded. The composition moves seamlessly between freshness and depth, never losing its clarity, and once again reflects the brand’s signature precision. As always, it feels crafted with a sense of balance and restraint that makes it quietly impressive and very well executed.
Manos Gerakinis – Oud Immortelle
Photo: Darius Damulis
Manos Gerakinis revisits one of the house’s classics with a new interpretation of Immortelle, celebrating the fragrance’s 10-year milestone through Oud Immortelle. The composition feels noticeably heavier and more sophisticated than the original, shifting the golden brightness of immortelle into a deeper, more resinous and oud-infused territory. It left a strong and lasting impression on me, not by reinventing the idea entirely, but by giving it a darker, more contemplative dimension that feels very intentional. It is set to launch later this year.
Welton x Chris Collins – Talisman
Photo: Darius Damulis
Another launch that caught my attention came from Welton London and Chris Collins. It is not often that perfume brands choose to collaborate with one another, which already makes this release particularly interesting. The fragrance itself is built around a beautiful contrast between brightness and depth, opening with sparkling citrus and ginger before revealing a heart of jasmine sambac and white tea. As it develops, a resinous and spicy base of pepper, pink berries, and elemi emerges, adding warmth and complexity. The composition feels luminous from start to finish, yet never static, gradually unfolding into something richer and more textured as it wears on the skin.
Le Persona – Salty Skin
Photo: Darius Damulis
Le Persona is a Korean brand I already have a deep love for, so I was especially happy to see their new release, Salty Skin, introduced at Esxence ahead of its launch later this year. It is a clean, fresh, and softly musky scent, with that effortless “just out of the shower” feeling that sits very close to the skin. There is a simplicity to it, but in the best possible way, where nothing feels overworked or unnecessary. As always with this brand, it is very well executed and quietly addictive in its wearability.
Xerjoff’s Collaboration with Automobili Lamborghini
Photo: Darius Damulis
One of the most talked-about launches in Milan came from Xerjoff, which unveiled its collaboration with Automobili Lamborghini in an exclusive presentation of three fragrances: Fierezza, Avanguardia, and Perseveranza. What stands out is the sense of luxury that runs through all three compositions; they feel refined, elevated, and consistent in their execution. Personally, Avanguardia was the one that resonated with me the most, though each fragrance holds its own place within the concept and carries the same polished, high-end signature.
More about it – here.
Nishane – Thorns Become Roses
Photo: Darius Damulis
Nishane presented a new scent named Thorns Become Roses, the newest chapter in the Rumi Collection, linking to Rumi’s idea that “with love, thorns become roses.” While not a huge fan of rose perfumes, this one stood out to me with a modern twist.
Created by Julien Rasquinet, the fragrance reinterprets rose in a more contrasting, textured way rather than a traditional romantic form. Saffron opens it with a slightly sharp, almost metallic edge before it softens into a velvety Turkish rose. Violet leaf, mimosa, and a warm woody base keep it in motion, giving it a constant play between light and shadow rather than a single fixed character.
More about it – here.
Jeroboam – Eliksir
Photo: Darius Damulis
Jeroboam presented Eliksir, a new fragrance that immediately caught my attention with its sensual blend of fruity sweetness and a subtle touch of oud. It has that addictive quality that makes you want to keep going back to it, and I found myself repeatedly smelling my wrist throughout the day after testing it. It is bold in character, but still smooth and very wearable.
Hellenist
Photo: Darius Damulis
This house was another discovery that surprised me, as I somehow had not encountered them before. The entire collection is rooted in Greek cultural heritage, and the way it blends mythology with perfumery creates this feeling of suspended time, where legends and forgotten figures are brought back through scent. While I appreciated the concept deeply, the perfumes themselves were equally impressive – there wasn’t a single one I disliked – but Les Bras de Morphée and Le Chant d’Achille were the ones that truly stood out and stayed with me.
Parle Moi de Parfum – Totally White/126
Photo: Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
I only discovered Parle Moi de Parfum now, and Totally White/126 immediately stood out as my absolute favorite from the house. What drew me in most was the lilac accord – so rare to encounter in perfumery, and even rarer to find done in such a realistic, natural way. It doesn’t feel abstract or reconstructed; it actually feels like standing next to a blooming lilac bush, soft and slightly green, with that unmistakable airy floral transparency. The fragrance itself stays minimal and close to the skin, but that lilac accord gives it a very specific emotional pull.
Perfumer H
Photo: Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
Perfumer H was another discovery that really resonated with me this year. Heliotrope was my personal favorite, which is not surprising given my soft spot for this note – it has that gentle, powdery almond-floral character that immediately feels comforting and familiar, yet here it is rendered with a refined restraint that keeps it elegant rather than nostalgic. I naturally found myself drawn to it. I also really enjoyed White Smoke, which shifts into a more atmospheric space – drier, more abstract, and slightly mineral in feel, with this quiet smokiness that feels almost like suspended in air.
Neela Vermeire Creations – Neith
Photo: Darius Damulis
Neela Vermeire Creationsintroduced the new extrait Neith, and it is a dark, myrrh-driven, resinous composition that still manages to feel unexpectedly cozy and enveloping. The opening has that immediate sense of depth and density, where the myrrh and resins create a rich, almost shadowy texture, but rather than turning too heavy, it quickly softens into something warmer and more intimate. What I found most interesting is this duality – it feels powerful and grounded, yet at the same time comforting, like a quiet warmth radiating from within rather than projecting outward. It’s the kind of fragrance that doesn’t just sit on the skin, but seems to wrap around it, creating a very personal, almost meditative space.
L’Atelier Parfum’s Vanilla Trio
Photo: Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
L’Atelier Parfum introduces three new vanilla fragrances – Vanilla Blush, Red Hot Vanilla, and Triple Black Vanilla – and I was genuinely stunned by them. Vanilla has been one of the most dominant notes in perfumery for years, to the point where it can sometimes feel as though everything that could be done with it has already been done. Yet these three fragrances proved otherwise. Each explores a different facet of vanilla and has its own distinct personality, showing just how versatile the note can still be in the right hands. When I thought vanilla had no more surprises left to offer, this trio managed to change my mind completely.
Insenf
Photo: Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
One of the Korean brands that impressed me this year was Insenf. Beyond the beautiful presentation of the collection, the fragrances themselves felt polished and thoughtfully composed. Cashmere 100 was my personal favorite, capturing a soft, comforting elegance that lives up to its name, while Château de Velours offered a lovely gourmand interpretation that felt indulgent without becoming overwhelming. The entire brand left a strong impression on me, combining aesthetic refinement with scents that are just as beautiful as their presentation.
Villa Erbatium
Photo: Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
Another Korean brand I was happy to finally discove. It had been on my list for quite some time, so I made sure to stop by their stand before leaving the fair. Unfortunately, it was the last day and the exhibition was incredibly busy, so I didn’t have the chance to explore the entire collection as thoroughly as I would have liked. Even so, a few fragrances immediately caught my attention, particularly Allegria and Hotel Cotton. Both felt distinctive and memorable, and left me wanting to spend more time with the brand in the future.
NVRNAGN
Photo: Darius Damulis
The brand was a completely new discovery for me this year, and it immediately stood out because of its foundation in real, personal stories. Created by Swiss-born Daniel Liatowitsch, who spent much of his life in Los Angeles, the brand translates lived experience directly into fragrance – moments of heartbreaking loss, memory, and joy that are not fictionalized or abstracted for marketing purposes. You can genuinely feel that honesty in the compositions, which makes them resonate on a different level compared to more conceptual storytelling. My favorite was Reunion, which felt especially emotional and stayed with me long after I left the booth.
Aura of Kazakhstan
Photo: Darius Damulis
This was a house I had been curious about for quite some time, and finally getting to experience it in person was very rewarding. What struck me immediately was the strength of its identity – the presentation, the storytelling, and the overall sense of something almost cinematic and exotic. Among the fragrances, 30 Years Special Edition and Saga of the Silk Road stood out the most for me, both carrying a strong sense of place and narrative that felt very immersive.
Jacques Fath Parfums – Le 12 Victor Hugo
Photo: Darius Damulis
Jacques Fath introduced Le 12 Victor Hugo, a fragrance marking the opening of the brand’s first boutique at 12 Avenue Victor Hugo in Paris. The combination of lavender and tonka bean feels especially well judged, creating something that is at once refined, luxurious, and surprisingly calming in its softness. Created by Jean-Christophe Hérault, the fragrance is already available for pre-orders, with an official launch planned for October.
ÉDIT(h)
Photo: Darius Damulis
This Japanese brand was a completely new discovery for me, and it left a strong impression through its unique cultural approach. The brand carries a sense of historical depth while still feeling modern, drawing inspiration from Japanese traditions and reinterpretation of material culture in fragrance form. Even without overanalyzing the concept, what stood out was how cohesive and thoughtful everything felt, both visually and olfactively.
Boadicea the Victorious – Dragon
Photo: Darius Damulis
Boadicea the Victorious is a brand I have known for a while, but Dragon was a new discovery for me within their extensive collection. It immediately felt unforgettable – a beautifully constructed sweet amber-vanilla composition that is rich, smooth, and surprisingly attractive. It lives in my head rent free ever since I smelled it.
Les Folies du Parfum
Photo: Darius Damulis
This Italian brand was a new discovery for me, and it attracted me at first with its beautiful presentation. Even though I didn’t have enough time to properly explore the entire collection, the few scents I managed to try already gave a strong impression of a well-thought-out and creative house. I particularly enjoyed the refreshing Acqua Tofana, as well as their new release Black Mandarin, both of which felt distinctive and well constructed.
Coreterno – Discoflower
Photo: Darius Damulis
Coreterno is a brand I always make a point of visiting at fairs, as I’m consistently curious to see what they come up with next. Discoflower was no exception – it stood out as a sweet, powdery floral built around a noticeable dose of ambroxan, while still clearly staying within the brand’s distinctive DNA. It manages to feel modern and slightly radiant, without losing the slightly edgy character Coreterno is known for. I also got a sample, and I’ve genuinely enjoyed wearing it quite a lot since.
AVII – Ōss
Photo: Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
The Spanish brand AVII has been getting quite a lot of hype in the community recently, so I made sure to stop by their booth as well. I was impressed by the overall level of creativity and the thoughtful construction behind the compositions, which felt cohesive and clearly intentional. Among them, Ōss was my personal favorite – it stood out as the most compelling and well-balanced scent within the range I tried.