Magie Rouge by Marrakech Imperial: The Art of Powdery Perfumery
Written by Nina Hellström
Powdery fragrances have been popular throughout history, and the category has gradually expanded, as has the definition of a powdery scent. Their timeless style and comforting yet elegant character have never ceased to enchant their wearers.
Images by Nina Hellström
I personally love all kinds of powdery fragrances, and although there are countless of them on the market, I was longing for a certain kind of neutral powdery scent. When Marrakech Imperial released its first collection in early 2024, I finally found what I was looking for. Before I delve deeper into this fragrance, called Magie Rouge, I will spotlight the history of powdery fragrances.
The term "powdery" in perfumery comes from the historical use of scented cosmetics, particularly rice powder used for face and wigs in 17th-century Europe. To make the powder more appealing, ingredients like orris root were added. Therefore, the term powdery did not necessarily always come from texture but from how the face powder or baby powder (talcum) used to smell.
Vintage powders were often scented with floral notes such as violet and rose, while baby powdery scents are achieved by adding, in particular, aldehydes, vanilla, and musk. Heliotrope and tonka bean create a powdery texture too, and even some resins, such as opoponax, can contribute a smooth and slightly sweet, powdery aroma.
Legendary and iconic powdery fragrances: calming, melancholic Après L’Ondée, mellow and magical L’Heure Bleue, and balsamic oriental Shalimar from Guerlain. In sensual Chanel No. 5 aldehydes were used.
Diptyque L’Eau Papier has a special rice steam note. Guerlain Cuir Béluga is the most refined powdery suede ever. Chanel No. 22 is creamier, thicker, and fresher than No. 5. In Teint de Neige, the powderiness and talciness are taken to extremes. Stéphane Humbert Lucas Panthea Iris and Masque Milano L’Attesa are high-quality and unique examples of vintage makeup powder scents.
Powdery can also be soapy or clean and soft, hence the term "clean laundry scent," or a sensual and sweet musky aroma that mimics the scent of skin. In addition to soft and subtle powdery floral scents, the latest arrivals—sophisticated powdery fruity scents and powdery gourmands—entered the market.
However, the notes often also create a tangible powdery feel to the fragrance. Powderiness is therefore created by a combination of many notes rather than any single note. Regardless of the aroma itself, the powdery texture is soft, dry, and velvety. It evokes a feeling of security, as if a soft blanket were wrapping the wearer inside or being covered in a gentle powdery veil.
Fragrance du Bois Heritage – luscious, clean, and soapy floral; Chanel 1957 – “clean sheets” scent; Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musk – “clean skin” scent; Perris Monte Carlo Musk Extrême and Ex Nihilo Musc Infini – soft, sensual, slightly sweetened aroma; HFC Beautiful and Wild and Royal Crown Al’Kimiya – extremely powdery roses; Enigma Aoud – powdery peach; Love Delight – powdery gourmand.
Coming back to Magie Rouge from Marrakech Imperial, it is created by Christian Carbonnel. It’s the very unique neutral powdery scent I’ve been looking for. It's even distinctly dusty, but in a beautiful, hazy, and poetic way. There is not too much vanilla in it, which makes it different from many other perfumes in this category, but just enough to keep the scent from turning cold or melancholic.
The texture is utterly comforting, soothing, mesmerizing, and velvety soft. The blend is harmonious and does not emphasize any note above the others. In many powdery scents, you can find iris or orris root, but here it is acacia, which has warm, iris-like, and powdery qualities. Acacia is also called mimosa, but here you don’t find that rich, sweet, yellow floral note, which dominates easily. Violet also adds the powdery feeling without vintage makeup-like nuances, which puts this in the neutral category.
The powdery note is opulent, powerful, dominant, and utterly dry. The floral notes are hidden under that rich, matte coat, making the scent more unisex than powdery florals usually are. The scent feels as if ivory-colored powder has been tightly packed on top of a creamy layer.
The scent never comes across as soapy, baby powdery, vintage makeup powder, clean sheets, or almond-like creaminess that heliotrope does, so that’s why it’s totally neutral. Therefore, I would call Magie Rouge a modern makeup powder smell. It’s proof that it's still possible to make a powdery fragrance that's completely unique. For me, it was unforgettable from the first sniff.