Fragrance Discoveries and Trends from TFWA Week in Cannes
Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
From September 28 to October 2, 2025, TFWA (Tax Free World Association) took place at the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès in Cannes, France. This annual event is a major occasion for the travel retail industry, but it has also become an important meeting point for fragrance brands. Many houses participate not only in the official fair but also by hosting their own showrooms, private presentations, and off-site events across the city.
Cannes / Images by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule and Darius Damulis
During TFWA in Cannes, perfume brands unveil their latest creations and offer a glimpse into what’s coming in the next few months. I had the chance to preview several upcoming releases. While some launches are still under embargo, I can already share a few of the most noticeable trends and personal highlights from this year’s trip to the Côte d’Azur.
Vanilla seems to be back in the spotlight (if it ever truly left). Some of the biggest names in perfumery are reimagining this beloved note with fresh and elegant interpretations. Atelier des Ors introduced Novae Vanilla, celebrating the brand’s 10-year anniversary; BDK Parfums launched Vanille Caviar; and Matière Première released Vanilla Powder Extrait.
A beautiful vanilla facet also shines in L’Ivrée Nuit by Ormaie. These are just a few examples, but from what I’ve experienced in Cannes, we can expect even more sophisticated vanilla-centered fragrances to emerge soon – each offering a new twist on this timeless ingredient.
This leads to good news for gourmand lovers: delicious, dessert-like perfumes are not going anywhere. In fact, they’re becoming even more inventive, with brands experimenting beyond the usual suspect notes of caramel or tonka bean. Mes Bisous introduced Crumble Me Softly, a fragrance reminiscent of a freshly baked chocolate cookie. Coreterno unveiled Ultralove, an indulgent blend of coffee, hazelnut, praline, and strawberry, beautifully balanced by floral undertones that retain the brand’s dark romantic signature.
Fragrance du Bois Sirène Privée — a bold, sensual composition where cherry and cinnamon meet spicy pink pepper and warm woods. It’s not a typical gourmand fragrance, and much less edible then the previous Sirène; rather, it plays with contrasts, combining luscious fruit with smoky and woody depth. Meanwhile, the recent success of Dusita’s Tonka Latte proves that the appetite for gourmand fragrances remains strong – and judging by what’s set to be launched, there’s more sweetness to come.
Fruits and tropical notes are also enjoying a strong presence this year. Jovoy’s Ha Long Bay opens with a luminous mango accord, while Carner Barcelona is preparing to launch Isla Bohemia, a fragrance inspired by carefree island living. Meanwhile,
D’Orsay’s Holy Berry adds a refined twist to the fruity trend, blending luscious red berries with the brand’s signature Parisian elegance. These vibrant compositions perfectly capture the optimistic, escapist mood that seems to define many of this year’s creations.
Another note making a quiet but confident return is the classics of perfumery – iris. Long admired for its powdery sophistication, iris is being revisited in diverse and modern ways. In their exclusive events Nishane introduced new fragrance Meant To Be Seen, inspired by the legendary Marilyn Monroe, exploring a soft, alluring, and sensual interpretation of iris, while Xerjoff presented the releases of early next year. One of them – Gibeon – an upcoming addition to the Shooting Stars collection that fuses vintage refinement of iris with a modern touch of luminosity.
Jacques Fath also joined the conversation with Musc Couture, a fruity-musky take on iris that feels both elegant and contemporary.
And there’s good news for oud enthusiasts as well. One of my favorite discoveries was an unexpected interpretation of oud by Ojar, set to launch soon. A few other well-known brands are also preparing refined oud compositions – though, for now, those must remain secret. What’s certain is that oud continues to evolve, moving away from its traditionally heavy and smoky associations toward more transparent, wearable expressions.
Another noticeable trend this year is the growing focus on new bottle sizes and formats, offering more flexibility for perfume lovers. Les Eaux Primordiales will soon make all of their Extrait de Parfum creations available in 100 ml bottles, giving collectors and long-time fans the chance to enjoy their favorite scents in a more generous format.
On the other hand, Floraïku is going in the opposite direction by introducing adorable 30 ml bottles for some of its bestsellers – perfect for travel, discovery, or those who love variety without committing to a full-size flacon. Other brands are following this trend too: smaller sizes are coming from Tiziana Terenzi, Sospiro, and others.
This year’s TFWA week in Cannes painted a clear picture of where niche perfumery is heading: a balance between comfort and creativity, a search for optimism and sometimes escapism. Vanilla and gourmands are being reinvented with depth and restraint, fruits are celebrating color and happiness, iris is reclaiming its timeless place with a modern spirit, and oud is being redefined. The world of fragrance continues to surprise, seduce, and reinvent itself.