Written by Ally Santos

There’s something about Milan in the spring—perhaps it’s the charm of cobblestone streets, the effortless style of its people, or, if you’re like me, the promise of an entire convention center filled with the world’s most exquisite fragrances. Esxence Milan is a dream come true for fragrance lovers, and this year’s edition did not disappoint.

Between meeting creators, discovering new launches, and soaking in the olfactory art, I’ve come back with stories to share and scents to savor. From February 19th to 22nd, over 300 brands from around the globe showcased their creations, drawing an audience of perfumers, brand owners, industry professionals, and fragrance enthusiasts alike. This year’s theme, “Masters of Dreams,” perfectly captured the essence of the event, highlighting the visionary artistry that transforms raw materials into olfactory masterpieces.

One brand that truly captured my attention was a new brand Florian Pontier. His creations possess a timeless quality with flacon of an artwork. Each fragrance feels like a delicate brushstroke on a canvas, leaving an impression both subtle and profound. There’s an artful restraint to his work that makes every spritz feel intimate and special.

I was also fortunate to get a sneak peek at Reinvented’s upcoming release, ‘Enigmatic Aura.’ Slated for launch at the end of the year, this fragrance is a masterclass in complexity. It opens with a soft, mysterious warmth that gradually reveals layers of spice and intrigue. It’s a scent that lingers in the mind as much as it does on the skin, and I have no doubt it will make waves once it hits the market.

The storied house of Royal Crown infused the event with a profound sense of legacy. Their fragrances carry a palpable weight, and yet, despite their rich heritage, they never feel outdated. Instead, they exude a timeless elegance, seamlessly blending tradition with modern sophistication. As I put it, “When it comes to citrus fragrances, the Italians truly know how to make them shine.”

Villa Erbatium, a house from South Korea, is known for its “emotional perfumes”—crafted to evoke deep feelings and memories. The brand blends high-quality natural ingredients and a meticulous approach to scent composition. Despite being a relatively young brand, its bottles and fragrances exude an old-world charm, as if they have been perfecting the art of perfumery for over a century. Their distinctive fig-shaped brass caps and vintage-style glass bottles reinforce a sense of timeless elegance, making each fragrance feel like a collectible piece of history. Among their standout offerings, Tobacco Lady delivers a deep, smoky elegance; Allegeria brings a light, uplifting touch; and Scent of Seoul embodies a more personal and intimate olfactory experience.

Ella K’s fragrances were like poetry in motion. The brand has a knack for crafting scents that evoke wanderlust, each composition inspired by a journey. There’s a romanticism to Ella K’s approach, with perfumes that feel like a passport to far-off lands. I left their booth with a head full of dreams and a wrist full of scent strips.

Orens Parfum brought a fresh perspective to the show, with fragrances that felt meticulously constructed. There’s a structural elegance to their work—notes woven together with an almost architectural precision. I found their scents to be both grounded and ethereal, with a quality that made me want to explore them further.

Bon Parfumeur’s ‘Shadow Myrrh’ added a touch of mystery to my experience. It’s a fragrance that draws you in slowly, with dark, resinous notes that feel both grounding and otherworldly. There’s an allure to it, like a whispered secret or a hidden passageway. It was a scent I returned to throughout the event, each time discovering something new within its depths.

Of course, Esxence wouldn’t be complete without the voices of fellow fragrance lovers. I’ve left space here for other influencers and attendees to share their own highlights—whether it’s a new brand that stole their heart, a scent that surprised them, or a moment that made the event unforgettable.

As I left Milan, my suitcase brimming with samples and my heart full of inspiration, I couldn’t help but feel grateful. Esxence is a celebration of art, passion, and the incredible community that surrounds this world of scent. I’m already looking forward to next year, eager for more fragrant adventures and the chance to once again immerse myself in this beautifully scented world.

Community Picks

“One of the standout fragrances for me was Myrrh Shadow 403 by Bon Parfumeur, a beautifully warm and spicy scent that perfectly complemented my time in Milan. Another brand that truly caught my attention was Borntostandout. Their striking booth, adorned in a bold and vibrant red, was impossible to miss and perfectly reflected the brand’s aesthetic. Their newest fragrances, featuring guava and mango, were absolutely captivating, fresh, juicy, and utterly irresistible!” - Andrea Charls @curlyscents

“I’ve been to Esxence many times before and I always enjoy it very much, even though it can be a bit overwhelming at times. This year it was quite different for me as I was an exhibitor for one of the brands. Saying that, I cannot avoid raving about the newest release from the Gate Fragrances Paris, Duet II which is absolutely mind blowing! Sensual, sweet and feminine. Also the upcoming summer release called Golden Hour is honestly the best and the most photorealistic mango fragrance I have smelled. From my dear friends at Kajal - you can expect yet another fruity & creamy masterpiece: Ruby. I am obsessed. Speaking of fruits, when I did have a moment to walk around the arena, I stumbled across a new fragrance from the brand Spiritica called YuzuYakuza. Yuzu, ink, asphalt.. Does not sound appealing but trust me, the fragrance and the strory telling magic of the brand is hard to forget.” - Paulina @paulina.perfumes

“I’m still processing the whirlwind of scents and experiences from the event - there were simply too many intriguing, compelling, and downright bewitching fragrances to take in at once. One standout, however, was the remarkable showcase of Thai perfumery, with the celebrated Prin Lomros leading the charge alongside rising star Nutt Wesshasartar, a talent poised for greatness. Not to forget a very talented self-taught perfumer with storytelling creativity and very dear friend of mine Pissara Umavijani introducing the second, unique gourmand to her Dusita brand. Another revelation was Ameenah, the renowned oud producer from Trat, Thailand, whose newly launched fragrance line proved to be just as captivating as its storied raw materials.” - Willie @willie.scents

“One of my favorite discoveries from Esxence was the brand "Reserve En Afrique, 1934." Celebrating African botanicals through haute perfumerie, this house that has a history entwined with nature and its conservation. Every fragrance from their collection embodied this brand's respect for the natural ingredients and inspirations at the heart of all perfumery. My favorite pick is Rouge Karkade, an upcoming release in June, 2025. A beautifully balanced hibiscus tea and pomegranate jam fragrance. Incredibly delicate yet impactful tea that is complimented by undertones of red fruits, without an accompanying synthetic harshness or sweetness. To my nose, this fragrance floats effortlessly, like a leaf in water - leaving a lasting impression without being loud or heavy. Refreshingly light and undeniably memorable, this fragrance - like all others from this house - is an ode to nature, and I personally cannot wait to experience it again!” - Surya @sunscentfragrance

B”rand No More was a booth I told almost everyone I talked to to try! They’re clean, refined, minimal fragrances — the standout for me is Fig Frozen, which is a gorgeous green, minty, aromatic fig. It’s fantastic!! Also really loved Villa Erbatium!! Their brand story is amazing and I really resonate with the bookish vibe and ethereal aura of their scents. My favorites were Mossy Glen, Whiskey, Merry Mary, and Dracula! Hiram Green was another great find! If you’re into natural perfumery, these are magical. My favorite was Tryst, which is an airy and romantic neroli-forward scent.” - Emelia @professor.perfume

“The best experience I had in Esxence 2025 was the Bon Parfumeur 403 Myrrh Shadow event and the fragrance itself, the most mysterious but elegant, refined, long lasting fragrance this year for me; and the party was so exciting so much energy I danced all night and meeting Ludovic the founder of the brand was just chef kiss. He is so amazing but I was so excited to have that fragrance on my body and I didn’t even wash it off, the next day. it was still there so you must try for yourself.” - Travaulya Wallace @travaulya

“I will probably go with Il Padrino by Sospiro - a very intoxicating fruity/ boozy gourmand , perfectly unisex that will definitely grab everyone’s attention. The mix between blackcurrant and rum and amaretto is very innovative and the final result is just incredible .The second one is Scent Of Seoul by Villa Erbatium. Sweet tobacco, very aromatic with hinoki, bergamot and bay leaf and a very creamy sandalwood. It was so refreshing to smell such a unique creation that is not following the trend ( gourmands). The presentation is 10/10 as well!” - Gabby @gabbylovesperfume

“I discovered Jijide at Esxence 2025, and let me tell you—the creative direction of this house is absolutely stunning. It’s a true hidden gem in the niche fragrance world, blending Italian craftsmanship with cultural influences from all over the globe. And they don’t just talk the talk—they back it up by collaborating with perfumers from all around the globe. Every bottle is a journey, designed for explorers—of the world, of cultures, of experiences. It’s for those who crave something deeply personal yet universally resonant. Two standout scents, Riso and Grano, are perfect examples of what makes Jijide special. Riso is warm, comforting, and nostalgic—imagine the delicate scent of steamed rice, touched with spice and soft florals. It’s cozy yet elegant, familiar yet refined. Then there’s Grano, a fresh and earthy masterpiece that smells like a sunlit Parisian bakery after a long night of rain—herbaceous, citrusy, and grounded by the delicious aroma of bread. Both fragrances feel rich in texture and depth, capturing everyday moments in a way only Jijide can. They’re true works of art that niche perfume lovers will obsess over, but if you’re new to niche perfumery, Jijide also offers more mass-appealing, less complex scents—without ever being boring.” - Farah Elawamry @farahsthoughts

“I am utterly captivated by the artistry of Vallense, a new perfume house I discovered in 2024 and experienced at Esxence 2025. My initial thoughts when discovering this house was to meet in London and experience his floating laboratory where perfume, distillates and tinctures are made. William the creative director speaks of and displays such creativity and personality. He’s full of life. His creations transcend mere fragrance to evoke an olfactory symphony that resonates deeply within me. Each scent is intricately crafted with a harmonious blend of rare and luxurious notes that transport me to ethereal realms. The concept and inspiration of using Holy Grass captivated me right along with the vibrant bottles. The complexity and sophistication of their compositions are unmatched with energy, making each bottle a timeless work of art that I’ve cherished with passion. For me, it’s more than a love affair with fragrance; it is a profound connection to a legacy of exquisite craftsmanship and a celebration of sensory beauty. William is a mastermind when it comes to creating perfume full of energy and substance. I’m extremely happy to have met William and experienced his creation at Esxence. His drive, his passion and creativity are genuine. For that, Vallense has been my favorite discovery at Esxence 2025.” - Marcelena Theresa @marcemell0w

“The fragrance brand I want to shine some light on is Plume Impression. I've been a fan of their creations for a long time. Meeting the owners Sabine and Gabriel just stated what I already knew. Their fragrances are made out of love and passion. And if there is one in particular I want to lift up it is Rivalite imperiale. Fruity, warm spicy and some creamy sweetness with a grownup tobacco. Plume impression a brand that makes a long lasting impression and they definitely deserve hype.” - Tim @smellysweed

“Soooo after going through samples, bottles, pictures and videos from Esxence I think the one that stood out to me the most is ROYAL CROWN as a brand. I think they truly represent the epitome of passion and art of Italian perfumery.

I love the fact that it is a family owned business ( this is one of the main reasons I fall for a brand) because to me, that means it’s part of their life. Perfume is part of their life. I can tell the love, passion and artistry of each bottle.” - Joanna Mercado @jmercadobeauty

“Perfumes have always fascinated me due to the emotions that scents are able to invoke, much like how I am drawn to them. But I never imagined how vast that world was beyond my realm of experience. Attending this conference changed my perception and enhanced my appreciation for the craft of various fragrances because it was done by some of the best artists in the world. The Dark Opulence scent by Scentologia is the one I was captivated with because of the refreshing leather notes that it possessed in perfect balance. With utmost certainty, a new aficionado has appeared into the realm of fragrances. Being someone who strives to evoke emotions through art, I am so excited to dive further into this intricate world because it truly does require beauty.” - Otavio Monti @otaviogm

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