Tonka Bean Obsession: Sweetness, Smoke, and Soft Darkness
Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
Tonka bean has a long and fascinating history in perfumery. Often used in the base, it usually smells sweet, sometimes reminding one of almond, tobacco, or even green moss. It’s incredibly versatile and stands as an equal competitor to the queen of gourmand perfumes – vanilla.
Native to South America, the seeds of the Dipteryx odorata tree were traditionally used for their warm, comforting aroma long before they entered modern fragrance compositions. In Europe, the scent of tonka bean began appearing in perfumes toward the end of the 19th century—more precisely in 1882, when it was first used in Fougère Royale by Houbigant. Tonka bean is prized for its rich coumarin content, a molecule that smells sweet, hay-like, and softly almondy. Over time, it became a cornerstone of gourmand and oriental perfumery, offering depth, warmth, and sensuality without the obvious sweetness of sugar or candy.
Through the years, dozens of tonka-bean–centered perfumes have joined my collection, and sadly, two of my all-time favorites are now discontinued. I still own them, but I reserve them for special occasions. The ones that got away are Dior’s Fève Délicieuse and Guerlain’s Tonka Impériale. They can still occasionally be found on the second-hand market, if that’s a route you’re open to exploring. That said, I’m genuinely happy that new and still surprising tonka bean perfumes continue to emerge. In this article, I want to share my favorite currently available perfumes that feature tonka bean.
Ataratma Tonka Bala
Images by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule
Ataratma is a new brand from London, and from the moment I sampled their fragrances, they earned my appreciation. Tonka Bala – unsurprisingly – is my favorite from the line. It opens creamy and soft, with tonka bean immediately taking center stage, wrapping the skin in a smooth, comforting warmth. But this is far from a one-dimensional gourmand.
Ambrette adds an edible, marzipan-like nuance, while coconut brings a subtle solar glow that evokes sun-warmed skin on a summer afternoon. Just when the composition risks becoming too gentle, an unexpected leather note appears, cutting through the sweetness and adding depth, darkness, and boldness. The result is a tonka fragrance that feels modern and confident, balancing coziness with quiet strength.
BDK Parfums Velvet Tonka
This perfume has been part of my collection for years, and at one point it was so present in my daily life that it could almost be called my signature scent. Velvet Tonka showcases tonka bean in its most indulgent, almond-forward expression – rich, creamy, and reminiscent of amaretto liqueur.
There’s a soft sweetness of tobacco leaf woven throughout, gently dancing around the tonka and vanilla. As it dries down, amberwood becomes more prominent. For some, it might feel intense or even overwhelming, but to me, it grounds the sweetness and gives the fragrance its lasting power and elegance. It’s enveloping and unapologetically sensual.
d’Orsay Tonka Hysteria
I’ll never forget the first time I smelled Tonka Hysteria – it completely caught me off guard. Expecting something soft and comforting, I was instead met with a generous burst of spices: cinnamon and pepper, sharpened by a veil of smoky frankincense. It felt dramatic, almost theatrical, and instantly intriguing.
Then comes the iris – powdery, refined, and beautifully poised – softening the spices without dulling their impact. In the base, caramel adds sweetness, but it’s restrained and elegant rather than sticky or overly edible. The balance here is exquisite: powdery yet warm, sweet yet spiced. It’s a tonka bean fragrance that feels intellectual and utterly unique.
Dusita Issara
In Issara, tonka bean reveals its greener, more mossy side. This is a beautiful fougère that blends pine, clary sage, moss, and woods into a composition that feels deeply connected to nature. Rather than sweetness, tonka here adds softness and cohesion, rounding out the aromatic edges.
Although fougères are often considered masculine-leaning, Issara is perfectly unisex. It feels meditative and calming, like walking through a quiet forest early in the morning. This is not a “beast mode” fragrance – it doesn’t shout for attention. Instead, it whispers elegantly on the skin, leaving a serene and refined trail. To this day, it remains one of the most beautiful scents I know.
Perris Portofino La Passeggiata
In La Passeggiata, tonka bean plays a supporting role – but without it, the fragrance would lose much of its charm. The scent evokes an easy, unhurried walk through the streets of southern Italy. Bright orange, lemon leaf, and fig open the composition with freshness and sunlight, instantly painting a Mediterranean scene.
Tonka bean enters surprisingly early, lending depth and gentle sweetness to the citrusy opening. It feels like passing a bakery mid-walk, the air filled with the aroma of freshly baked cornetti. That subtle gourmand warmth adds coziness and nostalgia, grounding the freshness and making the scent feel complete. I love how a fresh fragrance isn’t flat or boring, but vivid, textured, and deeply storytelling.