Capturing the Emotions: Conversation with Thomas de Monaco

Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule

Thomas de Monaco is the best example of how heart-driven ideas and breaking the classic marketing rules are the keys to success. In an interview for PlezuroMag, we discuss his journey entering the fragrance market and his future projects.

Thomas de Monaco / Photo: personal archive

I have been following Thomas de Monaco's journey from the beginning. The original Raw Gold was a deep, sensual fragrance, combining notes of lipstick and leather, which quickly captured the hearts of real niche fragrance enthusiasts. Eau Coeur, the second release, featured a dance of magnolia, osmanthus, and tonka, quickly becoming my favorite. Not only mine - all the colleagues and friends who smelled it kept asking me where they could get it. Back then, not many boutiques represented Thomas de Monaco. But I knew - this was going to be big.

In collaboration with perfumer Maurus Bachmann, four other perfumes were released, each of them unique and well thought out. The founder of the brand is also a photographer and has said that, just like with photographs, with perfumes he aims to capture moments. Perhaps this is why the scents of Thomas de Monaco are so visual and thought-provoking.

In the interview for PlezuroMag, we delve into his story entering the fragrance market and discuss his future projects.

Please tell us about your background and how you decided to enter the world of fragrances?

Thank you for inviting me to this interview. I'm currently on a train to Paris to participate in Perfume Week. I'm eager to meet fascinating people and make new friends. Friends are indeed key to your first question. As a photographer, I've spent my working life in Paris and, out of gratitude for the interesting commissions, I made a gift of my own perfume to some very dear creative partners around 2019. Many encouraged me to turn this into a project. And since I was already working on visual experiments and their effect on the olfactory brain at that time, it didn't take much to convince me.

First edition of Raw Gold / Photo: IG @kristinakiiscents

How did you decide to establish your own brand? What was the most challenging aspect, and which part of creating a new product did you find most enjoyable?

It took quite a bit of courage to embark on this journey. It's not just the complexity of all processes, but also about financial capabilities. Well, experiments are dear to my heart, so I dove in. My experience as a Creative Director and Photographer for all major international luxury and lifestyle brands has been very helpful. (Thomas used to work for brands like Chanel, Hermes, Cartier, etc. - note from the author) The most joy came from being able to break away from classical marketing rules and focus on heart-driven marketing, as I always preached for others.

Did anything surprise you when you began working in the fragrance industry?

Everything was a surprise. Suddenly, I was dealing with new people, many of whom were open to my idea and supported me from the beginning. Some innovative boutiques presented me with just one fragrance; I will never forget the moments when I saw my little debut, Raw Gold, on the shelf. However, there were difficulties in production, where I encountered a lot of inertia and intolerance. The pandemic made it nearly impossible to produce in Europe, as many big brands moved their production from China to Europe, occupying production capabilities. Those were challenging moments, but things have balanced out again.

Could you share a story about your first fragrance, Raw Gold? What was the concept behind it, and how has the scent evolved over the years?

Raw Gold is an emotional journey to my adolescence in the early '70s. I wanted to relive all possible memories of that time. Together with perfumer Fredrik Dalman, we embarked on a trip between innocence and lust, where unrestrained sexuality was the norm, torn between lipstick and leather. We succeeded quite well with this first Limited Edition. The current – no longer limited – edition has become more sensual, rounded, but also of higher quality. Together with perfumer Maurus Bachmann, I spent over a year on this version. And I believe the DNA of my fragrances has become very clear with this version. Yet, it still feels like a piece of raw gold – seductive and daring.

Thomas de Monaco / Photo: personal archive

Can you provide insight into the fragrance you are currently developing? The name Ultima Storia sounds somewhat melancholic, suggesting the end of something...

The first three unlimited Unique Extraits had their premiere in October 2023. Those were Raw Gold, Sol Salgado, and Fuego Futuro. This year, the revised Eau Coeur and Grand Beau are likely coming in June. And then in the fall, Ultima Storia will make it as the sixth scent. Nomen est omen, and I want to conclude this series with it, to keep it concise. And I believe, with these six, I can cover the most diverse positive emotions I had in mind; from happiness to love of freedom. Ultima Storia is pure joy of life, an homage to Italy, the land under the sun, simple yet full of life. "The memory of a summer" might be a fitting description. It's the opposite of melancholy, rather a moment to reflect and think ahead.

What does your creative process entail? Where do you typically begin when crafting a new perfume?

I've already talked about positive emotions, and these cause physical reactions. I believe that perfume first works from the inside. That's why I talk a lot about emanation, a kind of radiation and beauty that you thereby emit and infect others with; applause arises. As a photographer, I naturally use images, which I develop. Here, too, it starts with a vague idea, a feeling that slowly evolves from experiment to fine art. Unfortunately, I'm very romantic, I think that's noticeable in the scents, at least in the Unique Extraits. Mentally, I'm already working on an idea that deals a lot with cultural and interpersonal fusions. Here, the process will surely run in a different form. I firmly believe in the freedom of creation.

Could you describe the visual aesthetic of your brand? It appears minimalistic yet highly memorable and recognizable. How did you develop your visual identity?

Poetry is the starting point; it gives my minimalist inclination a special form. I'm often asked why my flacons are so photogenic - well, the photographer in me surely influences that. It's about design in the modern sense, reflecting my philosophy of fragrances that are meant for the here and now. The golden circle is a tribute to Raw Gold and has evolved into a pièce de résistance, establishing itself as a fixed component of the heritage.

Thomas de Monaco Perfumes / Photo: Darius Damulis

Your fragrances appear to enjoy significant success, resonating not only with enthusiasts but also with the general public. They are featured in leading haute perfumerie boutiques in many countries in the world. What is your secret?

I am who I am – Thomas De Monaco is my name. From the start, it was decided that the brand must be authentic, as I said: heart-driven marketing. People appreciate this straightforwardness. I can say that people suffer with me when I go through lows, but they also celebrate with me when something succeeds. With the birth of my children many years ago, I took off my mask. Also, there are no secrets in my Italian family.

All this is part of it; the second part is the quality of the work. It's about the raw materials, for which I set no financial limits, and their further processing, which takes place in my manufacture, in a building by Gustave Eiffel. This interplay distinguishes from many superficial concepts currently flooding the niche. At Esxence, I was blown away by the number of exhibitors. I stay more private and never talk about selling.

Kristina Kybartaite-Damule and Thomas de Monaco / Photo: Darius Damulis

Do you have a favorite memory related to fragrances?

No. Or rather, I often refer to the kitchen, where I mostly stand in the way when someone is cooking. I love the violence of scents there. And here, I remember that I love the scent of people. I'm overwhelmed by the taste of mass gatherings. And the scent that remains when they disperse. There's always something energetic that fills the room, and that has a beauty to it.

Thank you for your time.