Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule

This week, from 19 to 22 February 2025, Esxence, The Art Perfumery Event in Milan, Italy, is taking place. The 15th edition, “Masters of Dreams,” will pay tribute to the creations of master perfumers.

As every year, the event promises many new brands, exhibitions, and olfactory experiences. This year’s edition is set to feature a spectacular 378 brands from 36 countries and will span 16,000 square meters.

"Esxence 2025 celebrates the theme ‘Masters of Dreams,’ honouring perfumers who transform dreams into olfactory realities. With the precision of an alchemist and the intuition of a poet, these contemporary visionaries design fragrances that capture the essence of hidden desires and inspirations. Each creation is a journey delving into the deep of the human soul, then spreading through the air and narrating itself through perfume," reads the press release.

“On the occasion of our 15th anniversary, we are gearing up for an edition full of novelty, research, and culture. A combo of olfaction, art, and innovation in a true alchemical synaesthesia, offering visitors and fragrance enthusiasts a place to discover a world made of dreams, transformed into reality by master perfumers through extraordinary creations. Niche perfumery is experiencing a great expansion, becoming more and more research-driven. Perfumes are considered desirable products that can make a difference,” says Maurizio Cavezzali, co-founder of Esxence and CEO of Equipe Exibit.

Silvio Levi, co-founder of Esxence, adds: “We are here to celebrate a pleasant anniversary. Obviously, we are aware of the international political and social situation, which has seen wars, controversial elections, the return of customs barriers and tariffs, rising energy costs, an increasing impact of climate change, surprising financial crises, and emigrations from very poor countries or countries with ethnic wars to other economic realities. A general framework that has affected the global market and the luxury market in particular.”

In the event's press release, he emphasizes that: “In recent years, however, we have been able to see that attention to the world of perfume has steadily increased, demand has not contracted, and artistic perfumery in particular has been the subject of attention from major investors, with many new brands continuing to be created.”

Esxence also has more news: starting with the 2025 edition, an entry ticket will be required to access the event. Previously, entrance to the event was free.

Brands Not To Miss

Even though the event lasts for four days, visiting close to 400 brands is impossible (believe me, I have tried and failed for the last few years in a row, even with fewer brands attending). So, how do you avoid getting lost in this great-smelling sea? If you're coming to Esxence for the first time, here are the brands you don't want to miss in this year's edition.

Aphorismes

This is a very new French brand that Master Perfumer Dominique Ropion launched at the end of last year.

"Just as an aphorism must convey a truth in a few sentences, I sought to craft an unprecedented structure. I drew from who I am, my journey, and cast a fresh perspective on the great fragrance families, allowing new olfactory expressions to bloom, resolutely modern ones," Dominique Ropion notes.

Currently, the collection has six fragrances, all created by Mr. Ropion himself.

Bohoboco Perfume

A perfume brand from Poland launched its first fragrance in 2016. All of the creations are born from a childhood dream of the brand's founder, Michał Gilbert Lach.

The perfumes are unique and memory-evoking. Some compositions are built around scents you don't usually encounter in perfumery: vinyl, carrot, mushrooms, even Polish potatoes! However, they are crafted in a surprisingly wearable manner and are easy to relate to.

Bon Parfumeur

A French brand was launched in 2017 when its founder, Ludovic Bonneton, returned from Colombia, where he lived surrounded by tropical scents—cocoa, coffee, fragrant flowers. Determined to share his emotions and his passion for Haute Parfumerie, he teamed up with some of the greatest French noses, such as Paul Guerlain, Clément Marx, Anne Flipo, Juliette Karagueuzoglou, and Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, to bring his vision to life in bottles.

The brand has gained a lot of attention in recent years, particularly with the launch of the new Extracts: Iris Cartagena, Nappa Tuberosa, and Bois Narcotique Intense. The perfume community seemed to lose their minds over these releases.

At Esxence, the brand is set to reveal a new vanilla Extract, created by Quentin Bisch and Amélie Jacquin.

Christèle Jacquemin

Christèle Jacquemin is a French traveler, photographer, and perfumer who launched her brand in 2019.

The perfumes are inspired by travel photography, are gender-neutral, and are entirely created in Ms. Jacquemin's workshop in the south of France. They have also received numerous perfumery awards.

The scents are worth exploring, especially if you're looking for something different—less crowd-pleasing, more visual, and impressive.

Coreterno

Launching its first perfume in 2019, this Italian brand operates under the guidance of Creative Director Michelangelo Brancato. Coreterno’s collections feature archetypal rock and pop symbols, nineteenth-century portraits, illustrations, and antique etchings.

The brand also creates modern luxury accessories, scented candles, and jewelry. Coreterno’s style is unmistakable, as are its scents—bold and well-crafted.

"They are gateways to distant realms, from enchanted forests to the hustle and bustle of New York streets. They transcend the ordinary, they undermine your convictions, they challenge your comfort zone. Unleash their incredible transformative power and awaken the rockstar in you," the brand notes.

Electimuss

An independent British perfume brand, Electimuss is inspired by Ancient Rome and the Romans’ obsession with perfume. It was launched in 2015 by Luke Granger and Jason Collison.

The fragrances of Electimuss embody high quality, luxury, and individuality, all crafted by renowned perfumers. From the impressive presentation to the beautiful scents, it quickly built a fan base in the fragrance community.

During Esxence, the brand is set to launch a new fragrance in the Explore Collection.

Experimental Perfume Club

This British perfume house was founded by French perfumer and entrepreneur Emmanuelle Moeglin in 2016. EPC is demystifying the secret art of perfumery and making it personal, empowering people to explore, experience, and experiment with fragrances.

The perfumes of EPC are designed to be layered, allowing everyone to create and discover their own signature scent.

"We believe everyone can be the designer of their own personalised perfume," the brand notes.

Francesca Bianchi Perfumes

Dutch perfumer Francesca Bianchi launched her eponymous brand in 2016.

"Creating a perfume is an intellectual process born from the desire to express concepts, conceive ideas, and evoke states of mind. The goal is to spark emotions and feelings drawn from people’s personal store of memories and experiences," she notes.

Her fragrances are often animalic, sometimes challenging and unexpected, but they have a distinct signature that many have fallen in love with.

FUMparFUM

This is Lithuania’s first niche perfume brand, founded in 2011 by Aistis Mickevičius, an artist and actor.

The fragrances of this brand are often limited editions, crafted by hand in Vilnius. Its unique style combines the old European tradition of perfume-making with an original approach to modern perfumery. The brand also creates perfume sketches—an artistic expression of imagination that can be used not necessarily as personal fragrances but as scents to create an atmosphere and set the mood.

J-Scent

A Japanese perfume house established in 1998 by founder and creator Tetsu Amada. To this day, all the perfumes are manufactured in Japan, in the brand's in-house laboratories and factories.

Naturally, the perfumes capture the scents of Japan. Inspired by Japanese culture, traditions, nature, and the distinctive aromas of daily life in Japan, these fragrances transport you there—even if just in your imagination.

Le Persona

This relatively new brand from South Korea was founded in 2022. Its current collection of four perfumes tells the stories of four different ‘personas’ and invites wearers to step into their roles by donning their ‘masks.’

Not only are the scents beautifully blended and memorable, but the brand's aesthetics also capture public attention. The illustrations for Le Persona were created in collaboration with Calicot Paris, a French studio that has worked with global companies such as Louis Vuitton and Moët Hennessy.

Le Persona also offers home fragrances and hand care products.

Manos Gerakinis Parfums

Founded by Manos Gerakinis in 2014, this brand is Greece’s first niche luxury perfume house. Each fragrance reflects elements of nature, history, and art, infused with genuine emotion.

"Manos’s childhood memories of the harvest of roses, saffron, tobacco, labdanum, and honey, his flair for painting, his sophisticated sense of style, as well as his fascination with history, philosophy, and culture, became the cornerstones of our House," the brand notes.

The house’s fragrances are distinctive, well-crafted, and each tells a unique story.

Naso di Raza

This Italian designer perfume house, launched in 2015, is "determined to transform poems, paintings, emotions, and promises into fragrances." Their perfumes combine an artistic touch with Italian heritage—each one colorful and memorable.

Naso di Raza currently has a collection of nine stunning fragrances, created in collaboration with renowned perfumers such as Cécile Zarokian, Luca Maffei, Patrick Bodifee, and others.

Neela Vermeire Creations

This French niche perfume brand was founded in 2012 by perfume connoisseur Neela Vermeire. In collaboration with Bertrand Duchaufour, the brand connects its founder’s Indian roots with the traditions of French perfumery.

The fragrances are rich and recognizable, yet highly sophisticated and refined, composed using uncompromisingly precious materials. These are what you might call perfumes with a soul—pure beauty in a bottle.

Parfums Dusita

A French perfume brand founded in 2016 by Thailand-born Pissara Umavijani. All of the brand’s perfumes are created by her, inspired by the poetry of her father, Montri Umavijani. His life and work are reflected in every creation.

These fragrances are distinct and artistic, yet effortlessly appealing. Each perfume also comes with a dedicated painting, making the presentation and experience deeply immersive.

Sarah Baker

This UK-based perfume house was created in 2015 by American artist, creative director, and perfumer Sarah Baker. The brand is highly artistic and conceptual, often surprising in the best possible way.

From the limited-edition Jungle Jezebel collaboration with Miguel Matos to the bestselling Peach’s Revenge, the scents are bold, bright, flirty, and playful.

The brand also has an outstanding oud-based collection, created by Chris Maurice, which is well worth discovering. These are more than just scents—they are experiences.

Seven Gates

This Turkey-based brand was founded in 2021. "Taking its inspiration from modern art and social formations, the brand aims to combine digital art and the fragrance experience," reads a note on Seven Gates' website.

The perfumes, created by well-known perfumers, have a distinct signature. They smell modern and slightly experimental. Each creation is also illustrated with futuristic imagery—not something typically seen in perfumery. Seven Gates offers its users the experience of carrying a work of art, merging unique designs with unique spirits through an innovative vision.

Thomas De Monaco Parfums

A Swiss luxury brand founded in 2022 by photographer and creative director Thomas De Monaco. The brand is celebrated for its unique approach to fine perfumery, artistry, and the joy of craftsmanship.

The first experimental batch of Raw Gold was highly appreciated by perfume aficionados across Europe and the US, and so is the current collection of Extraits Uniques.

For over twenty years, Thomas De Monaco has crafted campaigns for international clients and luxury brands. His work is renowned for its poetic power, brought to life through sensual collages and stylish arrangements. This artistic essence is reflected in the brand's perfumes, created by perfumer Maurus Bachmann.