Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule

In the four days of olfactory festivity from March 6th to 9th, at Esxence 2024, approximately 350 brands from around the globe showcased their collections. Many of these brands, both within the fair and in private presentations, unveiled new or upcoming releases for the year.

This year, it seems that three styles of fragrances are poised to gain popularity: marine, citrusy, and tuberose-centered. These themes recurred throughout various upcoming releases, each interpreted uniquely.

I've decided to provide a brief overview of the novelties I anticipate the most and can recommend keeping an eye on.

Xerjoff

This Italian luxury fragrance house is set to impress with many new releases, all deserving of attention. From anniversary editions of Alexandria II, Elle, and Homme to a new collaboration with Anthony Frank Iommi Jr., co-founder of the heavy metal band Black Sabbath – Iommi Deified. The latter is a completely original fragrance, not a flanker of the previous collaboration with the musician. It promises to delight those who appreciate leather, patchouli notes, and darker, heavier scents.

Moreover, a new fragrance named Newcleus will introduce innovative technology to the perfume-making process. Instead of the usual liquid, the bottle will be filled with tiny pearls.

Additionally, two new fragrances will enrich the Casamorati line: Levar del Sole, based on rose, and Quattro Pizzi, a stunning tuberose fragrance inspired by Palermo, Sicily. In my opinion, these additions will elevate the collection to the next level.

Bon Parfumeur

This France-based brand has introduced two new fragrances set to debut in fall. 304 - featuring cumin, fleur d’amandier, and cèdre - offers a fresh take on cumin, exuding sweetness and sensuality with its floral accords. Meanwhile, 502 - comprising iris, cacao, and papyrus - presents a new gourmand option. With its powdery sweetness, I believe it will be a hit among gourmand enthusiasts. Personally, I'm eagerly anticipating this release.

Nishane

Later this year, the brand will unveil a new version of Tuberóza – Tuberóza X. Crafted by master perfumer Dominique Ropion, this fragrance will fulfill the dreams of tuberose lovers. With its well-rounded, clean, and smooth composition, highlighted by Tuberose Absolute alongside creamy ylang-ylang and honey accords, it promises an unforgettable olfactory experience.

Nishane is also introducing a new fragrance called Shinanay, created by perfumer Angelos Balamis.

Thomas de Monaco

Ultimate Storia, a new fragrance slated for release in the second half of the year, offers a fresh perspective on citrusy fragrances. Its lemony opening combined with pear, almond, coffee, and leathery accords creates a long-lasting, airy yet deep perfume. Definitely one to watch out for, and personally, one of my favorite discoveries this year.

Alexandre J Butterfly

Recently released and already captivating audiences, this fragrance boasts not only an eye-catching bottle but also a delightful scent. With notes of pear, tuberose, and milky vanilla, it is incredibly likable and easy to wear. It has quickly become a favorite of mine from the brand.

Welton London

Later this year, the brand will introduce its new Golden Elixir Collection. Featuring three Extrait de Parfum presented in refillable bottles, this collection promises heavier fragrances highlighting myrrh, leather, and saffron. My personal favorite, Mystique Myrrhe, is a sensuous, smoky, resinous creation that leaves a lasting impression.

Parfums d'Elmar

The luxurious Swiss brand is soon to unveil a new collection of five fragrances. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, these scents will rival those of the previous line. They're sure to delight enthusiasts of heavy, long-lasting, and luxurious perfumes. My personal favorites from this collection are Kaya and Dalika.

Experimental Perfume Club

A new gourmand fragrance, created by Emmanuelle Moeglin, Founder, and Perfumer of the brand, is set to launch soon. If the idea of pistachio gelato appeals to you, this fragrance will be a perfect choice.

Ella K

Perfumer Sonia Constant has crafted Orchid K, a new fragrance that stole my heart from the first spray. Fresh petitgrain blends harmoniously with sweet marshmallow, black orchid, magnolia, vanilla, and woody accords, all enveloped in a touch of ambroxan. The result is an airy, light scent with a perfect balance of sweetness and florals.

Coreterno

This Italian brand is introducing Oceanoir, an aquatic fragrance featuring salty notes of seaweed and salt crystals combined with citruses, cassis, saffron, sea lily, sandalwood, vetiver, ambery, and musky accords. While it initially opens fresh, it develops into a warm and cozy scent on the skin, making it an intriguing and well-crafted marine fragrance.

Parfums Dusita

In May, the brand will release a new fragrance inspired by the sea - Pelagos. While it doesn't feature salty notes per se, it captures the freshness of the sea with citruses, sea breeze accord, woody touches, and aromatic hints. As always, Dusita presents a radiant and artistic fragrance.

Masque Milano

The brand is launching four new fragrances, three of which are part of the Le Donne di Masque collection. Catherine is centered around jasmine, Vaiana features tropical flowers, and Diana is a fresh, green floral composition. This collection will be a perfect choice for the upcoming spring season. Meanwhile, Alcove, a woody, resinous fragrance, will be part of the Emerald collection.

Sarah Baker

It looks like visitors to Esxence 2024, including me, were captivated by the upcoming release from the brand: Peach’s Revenge. Created by Chris Maurice, this fragrance offers a unique take on peach, blending fruity accords with powdery orris, amaretto, spices like ginger and cinnamon, and transitioning to a sweet, warm direction with amber, vanilla, caramel, and musk. Playful, joyful, and original, it's definitely worth a try.