Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule

“Growing up in India, I loved the ‘good’ smells,” notes Neela Vermeire, the founder and creative director of the brand with the same name. In an interview for PlezuroMag, she reveals how Indian heritage is reflected in her perfumes, the philosophy behind the creations, and gives a sneak peek into her favorite fragrances she used to collect herself.

Neela Vermeire Creations introduced its first perfumes back in 2011 and launched 11 releases in total since. All of them are made in collaboration with perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, and it is easy to call these fragrances classic, elegant, and timeless. Not caring about the trends, their aim is to give their perfumes soul.

Neela Vermeire herself is a very positive and open person, with a great sense of humor and an exquisite taste – a real icon. I had the pleasure of meeting her in Milan a couple of years ago, and still bear only the warmest memories of the encounter. Seeing each other for the first time, she welcomed my husband and me like old acquaintances. Her manners, jokes, and passion for what she is doing are what made Neela a person to feel so good around.

This time, I was meeting her again, only virtually. Neela agreed to tell PlezuroMag readers more about her philosophy and the fragrances of significant meaning to her.

Tell us your story. You have an education in Social Sciences and Law. How did you decide to start your career in the fragrance industry?

Since my early twenties, I had been fascinated with unusual perfumes. I started collecting when I could.

Growing up in India, I loved the ‘good’ smells - flowers, sandalwood, and sweets during religious rituals. My memories of the cold air and the wafting smell of Darjeeling teas with cakes. The smells of spices in markets and traveling to other states in India to discover attars. They were rather overwhelming for my sense of smell.

I loved the smell of rice, spicy pakoras, and sweets with cashew nuts, almonds, and pistachios. A creamy, nutty smell laced with delicate sugars or jaggery.

Could you tell us how your story is reflected in your perfumes?

Excellent question. The first three perfumes are autobiographical - Trayee captures the smells of rituals I grew up with in my grandparents’ homes and sometimes at my parents' home.

Mohur is a result of what I believe my secular education, love for arts, and music captures with the cultural remnants of the Moghul period and the British Raj.

It takes notes from both periods and makes an utterly stunning Oudh Rose leather fragrance without ever being heavy-handed. That is the magnificent talent of Bertrand.

Finally, Bombay Bling enraptures modern and the joyful modern India I left behind to study in the US. It is a tart green unripened mango smell with white flowers, tobacco, vanilla, etc. Many call it the most realistic mango or fruit perfume.

All your fragrances were created in collaboration with perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. Why did you decide to work with him?

Because BD understood my concept as a traveler to India and he really encouraged this idea of mine.

Could you tell us about the precious raw materials you are working with?

We work with two compounding companies and they both have their specialties and excellent raw materials.

Let’s talk about the Fragments collection. What is the idea behind it and how does it differ from the main line?

We started working before and during the Covid holidays.

The idea is simply how fragmented our lives are - in fact, everything is fragmented these days.

It differs from the main line. These are all parfums, not EDPs. It is all made to our same standards but is another line.

Is there a fragrance in your collection that holds special significance to you?

Yes, Mohur. My late mother loved it so much that she wore it exclusively and she had suggested the name Mohur.

What is the most memorable or touching thing you have heard about your fragrances?

I have received many emails and letters (yes, snail mail) on how many people have loved our perfumes as these have helped them feel positive, helped with depression in winter months, feel grounded, and beautiful!

Many have used our perfumes for their milestone occasions such as weddings, etc.

If you had to choose a historical figure to create perfumes for, what person would it be and what would be the scent?

I would choose the late and great Maya Angelou! She was an amazing person.

I would choose something like Pichola for her. Elegant and completely appropriate for someone with such an amazing personality.

Where do you see yourself in this saturated niche perfume market? What is your key to staying relevant?

I started well before the big new wave began. Am tunnel-visioned and don’t create anything trendy. We also work slowly to make sure the perfumes have a soul.

What is your take on trends in the fragrance industry?

I don’t check for trends because of my deep sense of being removed from fashion. My ideas are “hors tendance.”

What are your hobbies?

Photography, cloud chasing, meditating, architecture, music, the arts... and dancing when I need to cheer up.

Since the last two years, as you know, I have not been able to do yoga.

Do you have a favorite fragrance or a few from other brands?

Yes, before I started my own venture, I loved and bought many vintage and discontinued perfumes. Chanel exclusives - Gardenia extrait, Bois des Îles extrait, No 22 extrait, No 19.

Also the classics such as Guerlain Vega, Muguets over the years, Vol de Nuit, Jicky, and many others back then. Some dear friends also helped me add more to my collection.

In the Hermes range, I had bought Calèche, Doblis, 24 Faubourg. In my collection, there were many from others, from Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle before Estée Lauder.

Finally, some lesser-known vintage perfumes.

I have given away many over the years to friends.

What would you advise to a person who wants to get into the fragrance industry?

Always follow your heart, do it the hard way. Don’t use a turnkey service.

Don’t launch too many perfumes unless that is your strategy. The market is saturated enough.

Neela also says she is happy to help people willing to get into the fragrance industry as a consultant. For more information, you can contact her by email contact@neelavermeire.com.

To find out more about the universe of Neela Vermeire Creations, follow them on Instagram where they don’t share only bottles or selfies but the inspirations and everything that the brand is built around.