Written by Kristina Kybartaite-Damule

A Greek perfumer, Christina Koutsoudaki, has been working in the fragrance industry for over 20 years and is a Council Member at the British Society of Perfumers. She has been creating scents for the Greek company Vioryl and recently developed a new fragrance for Manos Gerakinis – Selene.

She has crafted many fragrances for various products, even though most brands do not disclose the names of the perfumers behind them. Meanwhile, Selene marks one of the first niche perfumes to bear her name. In an interview for PlezuroMag, Christina Koutsoudaki discussed her inspirations, the evolution of the fragrance industry over the years, and her collaboration with Manos Gerakinis.

How did you get into perfumery? Did you always know that you wanted to follow this path?

That's a great question because being a perfumer was not a profession well-known in Greece back when I started. However, I was always fascinated by scents and flavors, so every time I got, for example, a book, I just opened it and smelled it. When I was younger, I collected miniature bottles of fragrances, everything that I could find, and I had a small collection in my parents' house.

I didn't really know that I wanted to be a perfumer until I became one. And from that moment on, I knew that this is the only thing I wanted to do in my life. I studied chemistry at at the University of Athens, and I did my master's degree in the UK. I got a job as a Perfumer Apprentice in Vioryl 23 years ago, and to be honest I didn’t really know where I was getting into, but even after the first week, I was enthusiastic and felt this opened up a whole new world for me.

At the beginning, everything seemed a little difficult because you have to learn all these molecules and essential oils, their scents, their properties, memorize everything and understand it. I think that you only fully understand what it is to be a perfumer after you’ve gone through the basic training. When you first create something on your own, combine the ingredients and it just makes sense, then this is the breakthrough moment that you realize that this is how you want to spend your days. Being a perfumer is very creative, not boring at all, it’s really something unique.

It was not something many people knew about because in the past it used to be a more secretive profession. Perfumers didn't get into the spotlight; they didn't talk about it in public. They were hidden behind their creations. And now perfumers more often have a voice; they can talk about their creations.

Talking about Selene – is this your first creation for a perfume house?

This is not my first creation for a perfume brand, but it is one of the first creations made for a niche brand. I have created over the years a lot of fine fragrances that are out on the market, but it's my first collaboration for a known and prestigious niche brand that I can talk about. Manos is one of the few who really supports his perfumers and talks about them, references them on his website. This is very important because it is like being an author and get acknowledged for writing the text.

Please tell us more about your other works for VIORYL.

I am a senior perfumer working cross-category, which means that I can create fragrances for different end products. The last few years, I focus more on fine fragrance and cosmetics, also luxurious niche candles and diffusers. Every application has unique properties that you have to take into account. Vioryl is the only fragrance house in Greece, and we're present with our fragrances worldwide.

When I create a fragrance, I have to take into account the country and the product I am working for, and this is what makes my profession so interesting. It is so diverse, and you can create for so many different applications; in a way you get into peoples’ homes without them probably knowing it.

Is there any product you enjoy the most working with?

I enjoy a lot working with fine fragrances and niche brands because of the freedom it offers me. You don’t have as many cost restraints as for other products, and you are able to use some more rare and expensive raw materials. So, this is something I appreciate a lot.

I enjoy every fragrance that I create to be honest. Every time you create something you know it will probably make a difference in someone’s mood, even if it is for a cosmetic product, like a body cream or a shower gel. If it makes them smile in the morning, then I’m really happy and proud of it. It doesn’t really matter which product you're formulating for as long as it's well-balanced and well-constructed fragrance.

Can you reflect on your work with Manos Gerakinis? What did the process of creating Selene look like?

It was a very nice experience because Manos knows what he wants. He's very expressive and he can describe what he wants from the fragrance. It was a very creative and collaborative work. We were going back and forth, exchanging ideas. I made a formula, he smelled it, had some comments, and then I returned to work on them.

We built the fragrance together. His initial idea was to capture the scent of bitter orange flowers in Athens and as we speak now, they are just beginning to bloom. That was really the idea behind Selene.

He wanted a floral fragrance, reminiscent of orange blossom in Athens, in combination with jasmine that blooms in the night. He also wanted some sweet elements that would remind us of Athens in the spring and summer time. I think it was a beautiful collaboration because we both have the same narrative, same experience living in Athens, so I could well understand what he was talking about and work with that.

What could you tell us about the Greek perfumery? How does it differ if it does from, let’s say, French or Italian perfumery?

I wouldn't say that it is very different because we all work with the same materials. Perfumers have their own palettes, but the majority of ingredients in perfumery are the same. What differs is the experience and background we all have. So, if I want to draw my inspiration from my heritage and my experiences living in Greece and having all the smells and odors from my environment, that would probably affect the way I create. Having said that, being a perfumer means being a creative person. You can think about hundreds of scents and odors that you can combine and this is what really gives you freedom, not just your nationality.

You have been working as a professional perfumer for over 20 years, is that correct?

That is correct, I’ve been working for 23 years now as a perfumer.

Could you reflect on how the fragrance market changed over this time? What you would say is the biggest difference between fragrance market 20 years ago, and now?

One thing that changed over the years is the regulation of fragrances. Over the years, we have seen strict regulations being applied in ingredients so you have to be adaptive and you have to change the way you write your formula in order to be in accordance with the latest regulations of the fragrances. There has been a slight shift towards synthetic raw materials.

On the other hand, at the same time, I've seen an increase in niche fragrances. People want something different, something more personal, something more unique than what the person next to them is wearing. In consequence, the number of more sophisticated, luxurious fragrances has increased. There is also a trend for more natural and sustainable fragrances than in the past.

How do you see the future of the perfume industry evolving?

I have the feeling that as we progress, there will be, of course, new raw materials that are the product of organic synthesis, and that will increase our palette over time. I also believe that the regulation is going to be even stricter for older raw materials. Another change in the future of perfumery is the tool of Artificial Intelligence. It doesn’t mean that AI will do the work of a perfumer, as this has to do with emotions, creativity and imagination, but it will help us speed up some processes. I think that the customers are going to demand more unique fragrances; they will go for more personal fragrances, something made for them.

Do you have a favorite material to work with?

I can't distinguish just one. I have a few materials that I really like working with and putting them in my formulas. I love iris; it's a very familiar, very dear scent to me. I also like musk molecules because they give this feeling of closeness to the skin. Generally, it depends on the brief of the fragrance I want to create.

I have a big library of raw materials in my mind, and I just have to pick up the right ingredients and not my favorite ingredients. Some smells are just closer to my heart.

Do you enjoy wearing perfumes yourself? Do you have a signature or favorite fragrance?

I used to wear fragrances a lot when I was younger. Working as a perfumer, I do wear fragrances but rarely, on special occasions. When I am working, I cannot wear fragrances on me; I have to keep my environment as neutral as possible. I cannot wear fragrances every day, but if I go out, I will probably put on either a creation of mine or a fragrance that I appreciate and like. I don't have a signature fragrance at the moment.

An old favorite is 'Trésor' by 'Lancôme' that I used to wear when I was younger because it has this feeling of a hug, and I really like it. I also like some fragrances of Hermes, made by Jean Claude Ellena because I really appreciate his talent. Sometimes, when I work with fine fragrances, I like to wear what I am creating just to have an idea of how the fragrance interacts with my skin, how other people perceive it, whether they like it or not.

What else do you enjoy besides perfumery?

I love anything that has to do with art and culture. I like visiting museums and art exhibitions. I also enjoy walking around the city. They both serve as a source of inspiration for me. If I see a nice painting, or if I see a nice image on the street or something that catches my eye, it just gets my mind working for ideas on a fragrance. So sometimes, I take my phone out and just make a quick note not to forget the idea.

Also, travels are a constant source of joy and inspiration. I like traveling abroad, and that also helps me understand the culture and the habits and the likes of other people. When you are creating for a client that isn’t local, you have to know the preferences of the country that you are creating for.

Do you see yourself working with other perfume brands in the future?

Yes, of course. This is something that I am always open to doing. It's something that is definitely in our plans.